Saturday, January 30, 2016

Six Methods to Control Snails and Slugs in Your Garden


While I no longer live on the Gulf Coast, one particular year there is forever imprinted in my memory. The snail infestation was so bad each morning I would find dozens upon dozens on the outside doors and walls of the house, the upper porch, the steps and handrails of the staircase to the porch, every walkway – even on my car! The damage being done to the plants in the yard and planters was beyond anything I had ever seen. Gardening has its challenges and one of those is combating snails and slugs! 

If the spring of 2016 is anything like the spring of 2015 with its frequent periods of rain every week, we will see a population explosion of snails and slugs; they absolutely thrive in moist, humid environments like those of the Texas Gulf Coast and East Texas.

As nocturnal feeders, snails and slugs may rarely be seen feeding, but if you find slime trails around your garden area and holes chewed in your leafy, green garden plants the culprits are without a doubt snails or slugs. 

Snails are mollusks; mollusks are invertebrate animals with a soft unsegmented body usually enclosed in a calcareous shell. While the snails themselves can be destructive to our vegetation, they also serve as intermediate hosts to parasites, such as liver flukes. The subject of liver flukes is way beyond this article, but suffice to say depending on the area of the world and the species of fluke in the environment - livestock, including cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, and poultry, not to mention cats, dogs, and humans may become infected by these damaging parasitic worms. So, in my book any dead snail is a “good” snail - period!

Methods available for combating snails and slugs in the garden include – chemical applications, non-chemical applications, habitat modification, direct intervention, the introduction of natural predators, and the selection of deterrent plants. 

1) Chemical applications – Metaldehyde, is the active ingredient in many off-the-shelf products and is the most common chemical used for combating snails and slugs; however, there have been reports of children, pets – particularly dogs and cats - and bird poisonings (some fatal) from ingesting this chemical. If used, extreme care should be exercised in following all the manufacturer’s label recommendations! 

2) Non-chemicals applications - I lean towards integrated pest management (IPM), especially the environmentally friendly methods. For example, in lieu of the toxic Metaldehyde I prefer ferric phosphate – sometimes known as iron phosphate – it is commonly found in nature and is not harmful to humans, birds, animals, or the environment. When applied on the soil in pellet form as a bait, snails and slugs are attracted to and ingest the ferric phosphate pellets which interferes with their digestion – the snails and slugs stop eating and die within a few days. I have used ferric phosphate in my gardens for several years now and have been very pleased with the results – and yes, it may be used in an organic program with restrictions which require the use of preventative, mechanical, physical, and other pest, weed, and disease management practices. Check http://www.omri.org/omri-lists for products such as “Sluggo” that contain ferric phosphate or visit your local garden center. 

It should be noted that some of the ferric phosphate products available on today’s market contain active ingredients other than just ferric phosphate – I do not use these products. As with all substances you are going to place in your garden – whether a pellet, spray, or powder – take the time to read the product label carefully and completely. Identify the product’s active ingredients, target pests, how to correctly apply the product, and any known hazards with its usage before you introduce it into your garden! Any “extra” active ingredients may not meet organic requirements. I often research active ingredients separate from product labels to get a broader spectrum of information – and am often surprised over the results of these independent searches. 

During my research I came across a staff publication by the USDA National Wildlife Research Center, University of Nebraska – Lincoln. The publication reported on testing the use of a 2% solution of caffeine sprayed either directly onto snails/slugs or on the soil in which slugs have burrowed; they had success with this but also noted that it did have some adverse effect on the surrounding plants. So, far, I have not been able to find any indication that further testing has been done using caffeine as a control method although there are many articles from many sources on the Internet touting its use. Folks, my question is – will this caffeine solution affect the pollen and nectar of plants? At this point, I do not know - until and unless I see some test results from additional science centers, I will forego using this method, mainly because of the pollinators – the birds, all the different bees and other beneficial insects that I try to encourage to take up residence in my garden. I know I can use other methods for control that are safe and proven to work. Additionally, I have found some indication that this method of control may not meet all organic program requirements; if you are organic, be sure to check this out before using caffeine in the garden. 

3) Habitat modification - Another approach is to alter the environment which snails and slugs use as refuge and breeding grounds by removing debris and dense ground cover, such as ivy and other succulents, stacks of boards and wood, and large wood chip mulches from the garden area. Thin out the plants to improve air circulation and use a mulch containing materials with thick, jagged edges such as eggshells. Snails have soft underbellies and will avoid anything sharp or prickly. 

4) Direct intervention - Try utilizing barriers such as a simple line of table salt around the outer garden bed, wood ash, diatomaceous earth, sawdust, copper backed paper or sheeting, sand, sulphur, animal or human hair, pine needles, thistle leaves, or straw. Keep an eye on your barriers as some of them may need to be re-built from time to time, especially after a hard rain or strong wind. Table salt, while very effective in combating snails, is fatal to plants. It should be used sparingly and never applied directly to the garden beds. Instead lay a small line of salt on a driveway or sidewalk that appears to be a regularly traveled path for the snails or slugs.
 
Set traps - snails love sweet things such as sugar water, fruit juice, soda pop and believe it or not, beer! For a homemade trap using one of the liquids, partially fill a plastic pot with a tight fitting lid and slots cut into the side, bury it in the ground to the level of the opening. Snails fall in and are incapable of getting out of the trap. Additionally, small boards raised slightly (1 inch) off the ground serve as effective traps. Snails will attach themselves to the boards during the day and can easily be found and destroyed. Commercially made traps are also available through garden centers and the Internet. 

Do hand combat – go out to the garden, find, and hand pick the snails from your plants and surrounding areas, such as trees, walls, and stones. Once captured, you can easily destroy the snails by dropping them in salty water or crushing them. 

5) Introduce natural predators - Bring in the support troops – fortunately snails have many natural enemies; among them are frogs and toads. Whenever possible, create a small pond in the garden to encourage frogs and toads to make their home there. The smaller ones love self-watering pots. Frogs and toads are great – no plant damage and they eat other garden pests, as well as snails!  Chickens, ducks, and guinea hens consider snails a tasty snack; people who own and allow them to free range seldom encounter snail and slug problems on their property. 

6) Deterrent plants  - And lastly, consider some plants for your ornamental garden that are less prone to snail damage such as ornamental grasses, impatiens, rosemary, sage, lavender, begonias, nasturtiums, narcissus, geranium (cranesbill), alyssum, roses, daylilies, and hydrangea. 

There is no need to live with snails and slugs destroying your garden or compromising the health of you, your pets, and livestock when you have so many different options available for controlling them – and most are environmentally friendly as well!

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