Honey Bees - Beginning a New Year



As the cold season approaches each year Honey Bee colonies go through a process of change - the workers (sterile females) are busier than ever stockpiling pollen - and nectar (transformed into honey) - to sustain the colony through the cold winter months. By November the Honey Bee queen (only fertile female in the colony) ceases to lay eggs; since no more baby bees are needed for a while it’s “Swan Song” time for the drones (males of the colony); they are permanently ejected from the hive.

 

Many of the older worker bees in the colony will begin to die off either from age or due to accidents while foraging for pollen and nectar. This in addition to the removal of the drones and the queen’s egg laying cessation for the year will cause the number of colony inhabitants to shrink from as much as 80,000 honey bees at the height of the warm season nectar flows to around 20,000 for the winter season. This is Mother Nature’s way of helping the colony to maximize its winter food stores.

 

During cold weather, except for “cleansing flights” (Honey Bees frown upon pooping in the hive!), the Honey Bees spend the majority of their time huddling within the protection of the hive to stay warm. There are a number of things that can go awry during this time that will impact the colony’s ability to survive the winter – disease or colony pests, such as Varroa mites, and/or starvation may overcome and kill the entire colony.

 

Assuming the colony has sufficient winter stores and all else has gone well during November and December, the Honey Bee queen will commence to laying eggs again – both female workers and drones - around January 9^th (in North America) to re-build the colony’s population in preparation for the coming spring nectar flows. So January, February, and March, constitute a very critical time for the colony – as new bees hatch the colony’s food stores will be consumed at a much higher rate. In response the colony will begin to forage regularly again - when the weather permits - to supplement their stores; pollen availability is especially critical. Pollen provides protein, while nectar fulfills the carbohydrate needs of the colony. The newly hatching bees consume a lot of protein!

 

Since honey bees through their pollination services are responsible for about one in every three bites of food we humans take, it is in our best interest to incorporate plants that bloom early in the year into our landscape and garden plans. Here are just a few – the Eastern Redbud tree, Magnolias, Dogwoods, Camellias, Jasmine, and Honeysuckle. Many people consider Dandelions as being synonymous with “land mines” in their lawn, but Dandelions provide an important source of protein for honey bee colonies. I always leave a section of landscape for Dandelions; watching the bees work those bright, little yellow blooms after a cold winter makes for a blessed day!

 

Check with your local nursery to determine the trees and plants suitable for your area that will bloom during these early months each year, especially January and February.

 

And think about leaving a few Dandelions for the bees - just as humans need variety in their diets, so do the bees!

Buying Country Property

I often hear people fantasize about buying property in the country; if asked, I suggest that before they begin their search they clearly define their goals for the purchase, both short-term and long-term. Defining their goals will go a long way in ensuring the property ultimately purchased will serve their needs.

For example, a weekend getaway a short drive from your current home may have very different requirements than a place that will eventually become your full time home and a business enterprise, such as farming, ranching or tourism.

Do your homework – the Internet provides access to a vast array of information, use it to your advantage to help narrow your search to locations and communities which meet your needs. On-line databases of real estate listings aid in finding property listings in all 50 states in the U. S.

Depending on the type of property you desire determine areas of the country that might be good candidates – research the personal and property taxes in those areas, the demographics, school districts (if applicable), medical facilities, roadways and transportation, utilities and costs. If you plan on farming, ranching – for that matter any form of agriculture, research the best areas to support this in terms of climate, soil, rainfall, markets for your product, etc., and pay close attention to the current asking price for properties in the area! If you will be financing the purchase, find financial institutions that are willing to work with you on the purchase of country properties and determine their terms for financing! Some institutions have limits and guideline on financing rural properties – some will not finance acreage.

Do these things before enlisting the help of a realtor! Keep in mind that most realtors work on a commission basis; they appreciate working with clients who can clearly articulate their needs with respect to a property, have their finances in order, and are serious about making a purchase. Also keep in mind, that all realtors are not equal.

Before choosing a realtor – interview the realtor to ensure he or she possesses the knowledge and experience to ably assist your purchase of country property. I do not recommend engaging a realtor that is not familiar with the area in consideration and/or the sale or purchase of country properties. Just because a realtor has won awards for the number of homes sold in the city or suburbs does not mean he or she has the knowledge to ask the “right” questions in transactions involving country properties with acreage.

Oftentimes, buyers will contact a particular realtor because that realtor has a property “listed” for sale in an on-line database, for example, www.realtor.com. The realtor that advertises the property for sale can either be the owner of the property or has been engaged by the property owner to assist with the sale of their property. Buyers need to determine from the onset of contact with a realtor, who the realtor would represent in the transaction if the buyer decides to make an offer on the property. This is important – if the realtor is not going to represent you – the buyer – you will not be able to rely on the realtor for advice during the transaction; if you are not personally knowledgeable and experienced in the purchase of country property, this can place you in a serious disadvantage, both when the offer is written and negotiating terms of the contract through closing of the sale. Once you determine who the realtor represents, you can better decide how to proceed. For example, the realtor, even though he or she represents the owner, can schedule a “showing” of the property to afford you the opportunity to view the property in detail. The owner’s realtor may also supply you with certain information about the property, i.e., a “Sellers Disclosure”, if asked.

A “Sellers Disclosure” is a document the owner of the property fills out that provides information on the property, such as the location, the amount of land, the condition of the property, etc.; this document should be part of the documents the realtor receives from the owner at the time of “listing”. All states may not require this document – and it may not be called by the same name – but ask the realtor for a copy of anything the owner may have provided that discloses information about the condition of the property, taxes, location of the property, current survey availability, etc.

To clarify for those who may not be familiar with the term, a “listing” is an agreement between a realtor and the owner of a property; it lays out the legal description and location of the property for sale, asking price, and other pertinent information such as how the realtor will be paid if the property is sold – usually the realtor is paid by commission based on the final sale price of the property.

The realtor representing the owner may legally, depending on state laws, be allowed to help the buyer in completing a written offer to the owner for consideration. If the owner accepts the offer, this written offer usually becomes a “contract for purchase”. However, again depending on state laws, the realtor may then be placed in a position of “neutrality” for the duration of the sale and only allowed to pass information back and forth between the parties – but no advice could be dispensed to either party. If both the seller and the buyer are knowledgeable about real estate transactions, this situation may be acceptable to them, if not, it is best that each party – the seller and the buyer – have their own realtor representing their separate interests in the sale. Keep in mind, real estate sales are no less a “buyer beware” industry than the used car business!

Now, what I am about the write may not make me popular with realtors, but so be it. When dealing with realtors, even a realtor you have engaged to represent you in a real estate transaction – be circumspect! Do not engage in banter about your personal affairs, don’t “gush” over a particular property – don’t reveal any information that you would not want the opposing side of the transaction to know about you or your finances. Believe me, this is “intel” that may influence the terms of the contract. All the realtors should be concerned with is the transaction at hand – what property is being purchased, the price and how will it be paid for, the specific tasks to meet the contractual requirements, and when the sale will be closed and they get paid – period!

You have the right to have inspections done on structures – home and other buildings; you can also have inspections done of the septic system, the water well, and perform soils tests. These things must be included as written requirements with the offer to the owner.

The realtor listing the property for sale should ensure the person signing the “listing” agreement has the authority to place the property on the market, either as the owner of the property or the owner’s agent. If there is a discrepancy between the name on the listing agreement and the name on the appraisal district rolls as the owner of the property – question the discrepancy. This may avoid a lot of confusion later on in the process.

When dealing with country property, there are many things you must consider, such as water and mineral rights – for example, has any of these rights been sold separate from the property and what is the potential impact of buying a property in this situation?

Are there current leases on the property, such as leases to drill for oil and gas, grazing, farming, mining, timber, etc. – if so, what are the terms of the leases?

Is there a current survey on the property – if not, what is the cost and time frame for getting one in hand? I do not recommend purchasing any property without an acceptable survey – you need to ensure the property you think you are purchasing is in fact THAT PROPERTY! People have bought property thinking they were buying 100 acres, but when the survey was completed this was not the case. Financial institutions will not make loans on real estate without an acceptable survey.

Are there pipelines, utility lines or other “right-of-ways” running across the land that will prevent certain areas of the property from being fully utilized?

Are there any federal, state or local regulations or ordinances that impact usage of the property, for example, remodeling structures? Are there known endangered species living on the property or wetland areas that cannot be developed by law? Are there parts of the land that cannot be utilized due to seasonal flooding or extreme geography?

Are there current local tax exemptions on the property, such as agriculture or timber exemptions – will you be able to maintain these exemptions after purchase and if not, how will this affect your property taxes? Keep in mind if the owners are elderly or disabled, there may be tax exemptions on the property that you may NOT be eligible to maintain and will definitely affect your taxes!

How is the property accessed? You will occasionally find country property for sale that is “landlocked” – no legal access to the land exists from a public roadway? If access is not via public road frontage, is access provided via someone else’s property? Are there restrictions on using this access? Must you purchase additional land to be able to access your land? Just keep in mind, if there is no legal access, you can be cut off from accessing your land at any time.

Are there crops, equipment or livestock that must be considered in the sale and if so, how will these issues be handled as part of the sale?

These are some of the considerations when purchasing country property - buying country property can be more complicated than purchasing property in the city.

Some advice I will pass along, 1) be on-hand for ALL inspections and 2) as the buyer you have the choice of which company to handle escrow deposits and closing documents for the sale of the property; chose an office within driving distance of the property. Arrange with your realtor for you both to do a "walk-through" of the property at the shortest possible time before closing. Your realtor should inform the seller's realtor of the intent to do a "walk-through" prior to closing - it does not matter if it is just raw land with no structures - do a "walk-through" prior to closing. This puts the seller on notice! The goal is to ensure the seller has done what was laid out in the contract with respect to removal of items from the property prior to sale or requested repairs have been made satisfactorily, or that they have not removed or damaged something that was part of the contract for sale. Believe me, some people can be quite naughty about meeting contractual requirements and a last minute "walk-through" may save you from closing before contractual requirements have been met. Failure to comply with contractual requirements constitutes a breach of contract! If this happens refuse to close on the property until the seller has complied fully with the contract. DO NOT CLOSE AND THEN EXPECT THE SELLER TO COMPLY!

Take your time, do your homework, and get someone knowledgeable to help you find the right piece of property and negotiate the sale if you are not experienced in country property purchases. It can save you a lot of heartache and a negative impact on your bank account!

How to Reduce Stress While Improving Your Ranch's Bottom Line

Folks, ranching is a business – a tough business - to be a success it demands time, physical strength, and intelligence with a good dose of common sense in the mix; it can at times definitely increase stress in life, between operational decisions, the fluctuating prices in the cattle market, and the vagaries of Mother Nature. Successful ranchers analyze their operations and are willing to try different techniques or ideas to improve operations and the ranch’s bottom line.

I often hear ranchers lamenting they don’t have time for vacations, they are losing calves, they are losing money, and on and on. Yet many ranchers ignore one of the best tools available to them – a controlled breeding program. Basically, a controlled breeding program is a plan for when the cattle breeding season will begin and when it will end. The ability to control the “breeding season” is an important aspect of ranching and one that I often see overlooked by ranchers – even ones that have been raising cattle for decades!

A controlled breeding program is a very cost effective practice; it enables the rancher’s dollars to be focused on nutrition at specific times to ensure a successful breeding season for mature animals and good weaning results for the calves. It also enables the rancher to predict when and if additional labor will be needed to assist with specific operations and plan accordingly.

A controlled breeding program helps the rancher focus on one major operation at a time which greatly reduces overall stress for the rancher. For example, the cows will all be giving birth within a specific window of time, this enables the rancher to closely monitor the cows for calving difficulty and respond accordingly to increase the survival rate for both the cow and the calf.

The calves in turn will be uniform in age allowing for veterinary tasks to be administered in total on given dates which saves the rancher both money and time. And the calves will be more uniform in weight when ready for sale; they can all be sold together when a weight is reached that the rancher determines will bring the most income.

A controlled breeding program helps the rancher identify cows that are not reproducing and thus not adding value to the herd. These cows can be then be culled to make way for more productive animals. Additionally, knowing exactly when the breeding season will begin the rancher can determine whether or not to replace or maintain an existing herd bull, schedule a “lease” a bull for the breeding season, or to utilize artificial insemination (AI) to achieve specific breeding goals for the herd and make plans for this.

One of the biggest and most stressful mistakes we made when beginning ranching was to allow our bull to run full-time with the cows for two reasons - 1) bulls can be very destructive and 2) you cannot control the “breeding season” if the bull is constantly present in the herd.

We started off with 11 heifers and a registered Angus bull with a 22 letter name that we shortened to “Buddy”. Since we were new to raising cattle we emulated what local ranchers did – let Buddy run with the heifers full time and unknowingly set ourselves up for a tough year. Buddy, the Bulldozer, dug holes – some of them as much as 8 inches deep and two feet in diameter all over the pastures when he wasn’t fighting with the neighbor’s bull and tearing the fencing down. If you have never driven a tractor through one of these holes that you couldn’t see coming for the high grass around it – believe me this is an experience you can do without!

Now, when Buddy wasn’t going at it across the fence line with the neighbor’s bull or digging holes, he was doing the job we “hired” him to do. All the heifers were bred and the calves were on the way – and on the way – and on the way! That first calving season seemed to go on forever! Because the calves, in some instances, were born many weeks apart for a protracted period of time I was up at all hours of the day and night checking on those heifers, needless to say I was pretty tired and stressed by the time the last calf was born.

A few months later as weaning time came around, we had some calves and their Mommas bawling day and night for three days in a row, then quiet (Blessed be!) and then it would start over as the next group of calves reached weaning age! When it came time to sell the calves as a group they were all different ages and weights and although we did make money from the sale the time of year to get best prices had passed.

When the trailer hauling the calves to the sale barn pulled away, I was both relieved and disappointed overall in how the year had gone. I knew there had to be a better way and since we had emulated the local ranchers’ operations that first year with one exception, we needed to search elsewhere for ideas and solutions.

After some research, we found and attended a pasture and livestock management school provided by Texas A & M – it was 3 days long – and was well worth the time and money we spent on travel and the class because we walked away on the last day with a lot of valuable information we could utilize to improve our entire operation.

One of the our goals was to develop a “controlled breeding program“ – we had to determine what was the most advantageous date each year to open the gate and allow Buddy to join the cow herd.

Our approach to a “controlled breeding season” - 1) one of things we discussed in the school was “Body Condition Scores” (BSC) – BSC is the necessary weight of the cow to elevate the chances of successful breeding within a specified time period. All the cows needed to be a minimum of BCS 5 at the start of breeding season, 2) we set a date when we wanted to the calves ready for sale and using this date backed up the calendar to select a “breeding season” and a “weaning season”, 3) Buddy was placed in a pasture of his own that connected to a big stall in the barn to provide shade and shelter from inclement weather with plenty of hay and other goodies a big guy must have to remain happy and healthy, and 4) Buddy would be allowed to run with the herd for 45 days continuously in order to breed the cows, and then he would go back to his pasture. Any cows that did not breed back would be culled.

The desired outcome - the cows would all be in good condition at the time of breeding, and bred within the 45 day period of time, they would calve within a 45 day period, all the calves would be of an age that they could be weaned together as one group, veterinary tasks completed on the group at the same time, and sold together as a group making life on the ranch much easier for all involved and more lucrative. Additionally, we wanted all the calves “on the ground” at an optimal time of the year based on our schedule and feeding requirements for the cattle – maximizing when the pastures were at their most productive. Since Buddy was not roaming free all the time, there would be less pasture and fence damage!

A 45-day breeding season is pretty aggressive, but we felt since we were dealing with mature cows that had all calved before, and all the cattle, including Buddy were in good health, 45 days was doable. And it was; all the cows were bred back within that time frame. Kudos to Buddy!

It took two “breeding seasons” to get everything synchronized to the most desirable dates, but with the calves all coming in close succession, we did not feel tied to the ranch for weeks on end awaiting calving time to be over, and we had more control over the optimum time to sell the calves.

A controlled breeding plan is a valuable tool that every rancher should use to his or her advantage; it should be designed specifically to meet his or her goals and time frames. For example, a rancher may decide to have two “breeding seasons” a year – one in the spring and one in the fall. The season may be of a different length of time – instead of 45 days, it might be 60 or 90 days. The point is that a controlled plan is not set in stone – it can be adapted as necessary – but having a plan can improve the ranch’s financial outcome each year and make life much easier for the rancher and his or her family!

Uncle Barney

Uncle Barney and Me

My stepfather had family that farmed a section of land in East Texas; as a child we would visit the farm.  The farm belonged to his aunt and uncle – Uncle Barney; although they were not my family by blood, I claim them by right of heart. It has been decades since my last visit to that farm; they, and my parents, have long ago passed from this life.

Their home was a small wood-frame farmhouse set upon blocks with a metal roof and a wide front porch accessed by steps that seemed to a 4 year old to go on forever. While they did have electricity, water was hand pumped to the house from an old style well. There was a huge barn set back from the house with corrals for Uncle Barney’s team of mules for plowing and cultivating the farmland; Uncle Barney grew corn and watermelons for a living. In the monetary sense, Uncle Barney and my Aunt were by no means wealthy people, but they were wealthy in other ways – it is impossible to put a dollar value on the love their shared for each other and those around them. I have thought many times what a shame they were never blessed with children of their own.

Visits to the farm were always met with lots of laughter, hugs, and barking dogs running everywhere. First things first after greetings, Uncle Barney would take my hand and off we would go to the barn. He stored hay and corn on the cob for his mules in the barn; he would call the mules up to the barn so I could feed them corn cobs. On many occasions, hand in hand we would walk through the fields of corn and watermelons as he checked the status of the crops and quietly talked about life on the farm. Uncle Barney did not talk much unless it was about farming. At the end of the day, meals were shared at an old table in their big kitchen and afterwards we would all sit on the front porch and watch the sunset. When the weather was bad, after dinner my Aunt would break out the dominos – and all the adults would play while I watched. My how that lady loved to play dominos – and she usually won!

When I was 10, my Aunt, and Uncle Barney left the farm and moved into the city a few blocks from our home. Uncle Barney could no longer work the farm, he had developed Diabetes – he was blind and bedridden. The house they lived in was located between our home and the elementary school I attended. On many afternoons, I would stop by their home to visit with Uncle Barney on my way home from school. He would ask me to read to him – the Bible, sections of the newspaper, sometimes from books from my school’s library; many times he would just hold my hand as he talked about the farm – planting and harvesting, the years of bad weather, the years of good crops, his mules. It was obvious even to a 10 year old this was a man who loved the land. And then one morning Mother told me Uncle Barney has passed away during the night. On one hand, I was glad he was no longer suffering; on the other hand, I felt his passing left a big hole in my heart that could never be filled again.

At one point in my teens, I was going through a particularly stressful time; one night I dreamed of Uncle Barney and the farm. The dream was so vivid I could feel my hand in his, the sun and breeze on my face as we walked across the fields, I could smell the fresh-turned Earth. I heard his voice and although I could not make out the words, a sense of calm just seemed to flood my mind. When I awoke, the problems I faced were still there, but they didn’t seem so overwhelming anymore.

Timed passed and I didn’t actively think of Uncle Barney again until one day years later while driving home from work alone. Traffic was particularly bad that day – bumper to bumper – a large box van was in front of me on the roadway; when we came to an intersection not far from home, the van signaled a left turn. I decided to go around the van by passing on the right using the shoulder of the road. I pulled around beside the van and was about to enter the intersection when I heard a voice screaming at me to stop! I slammed on the brake almost an instant before a car came barreling through the intersection – the driver of the car had run the red light. If I had entered the intersection, he would have broadsided my car on the driver’s side; as fast as he was driving there is no doubt in my mind I would have been killed that day. I recognized the voice that had spoken to me.

As we age we tend to reflect upon the past - remembering people, places, and events that shaped or had an effect on our lives. Some memories are crisp and some are like fleeting shadows through our mind that briefly reach out to us at unexpected times and in unexpected ways. I have often thought about these two particular incidents over the years and have come to the conclusion that if Guardian Angels are real; I have one – Uncle Barney.

To this day, there are times when I can close my eyes and envision that kitchen - the sound of laughter, the smell of my Aunt’s homemade biscuits. I can hear the rain on that metal roof as I lay in bed at night. I can hear Uncle Barney calling the mules to the barn and feel the sun on my face while walking through the fields of watermelons hand in hand - listening to Uncle Barney’s voice.

Simple, but happy times stay in the heart and the mind forever!

In loving memory of -

Uncle Barney

Born: October 7, 1900 – Died: March 16, 1960

Gone but never forgotten!

Deborah's Granola Recipe



For several health reasons, I shy away from consuming wheat or wheat gluten. This has not been an easy task as I have found products containing one or both in surprising numbers – many of them I cannot even understand why the product contains wheat or wheat gluten, like some ice creams!

The one thing I have missed most over the years has been my morning cereal, so this week I decided to find out if granola could serve as a satisfying and tasty replacement for some of the cereal brands I was fond of in the past.

I tried several different recipes and found that none were quite what I wanted – one of the main reasons being the recipes called for way too much sugar and/or other sweeteners. Ultimately, I developed my own recipe and to my surprise my husband really likes it, too!

So, for those of you who may have been considering making your own granola or have used other recipes and found them too sweet for your palate and are fond of pecans– try this one.

Ingredients:

3 cups rolled oats
1 cup slivered almonds
1 cup chopped pecans
¾ cup shredded sweetened coconut
2 level TBS light brown sugar
¼ cup maple syrup (not corn syrup)
¼ cup walnut oil
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp nutmeg
½ tsp salt

1 cup raisins

Directions:

Preheat oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit.

Combine the oat, almonds, pecans, and coconut in a large bowl.

In a separate bowl combine brown sugar, maple syrup, walnut oil, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt – mix well and pour mixture in larger bowl with oats, almonds, pecans and coconut.

Mix all ingredients well.

Pour mixture onto a 13 X 18 X 1 sheet pan. Spread mixture evenly in pan with a spatula.

Place pan in oven and set timer for 15 minutes. At alarm, turn mixture with spatula and re-spread evenly in pan. Repeat this process 4 times, so the mixture is baked for approximately one hour. During the last 15 minutes watch the color of the granola – during this time the granola should develop an even golden brown color. If it begins to get too dark cease baking and remove pan from oven.

Allow the granola to cool and then mix in the cup of raisins. Store the granola in an airtight container.

The granola should keep in the airtight container for about a month.

Eight Things I Learned Working With Cattle

I have learned many, many more things than just eight working with cattle; it seems as if I learn something new every day; however, these eight are some of the things I learned early on that have been proven valuable on an on-going basis.

1) Cattle can open gates – many of the livestock gates on the market nowadays have a small, slanted slot about half way up the gate on one side. For deployment in a gateway, the gate has prongs that allow the gate to be mounted on one fence post while a length of chain is used to secure the gate to a solid post on the other side of the gateway. One link of the chain is fitted into the slot and is intended to serve as the “locking” mechanism for the gate. Calves are attracted to things with color or that make tinkling noises as the chains do when wind is rocking the gates or the cattle are brushing against them. After watching a calf stand and play with one of the chains until it became dislodged from the slot allowing the gate to swing open, we began using snap hooks with the chains to prevent the cattle from opening the gates.

2) There is a right and a wrong way to open gates – by nature cattle are nomadic grazers, much like the buffalo herds of old. Humans domesticated cattle and placed them in controlled grazing areas, but the nomadic instinct is still there. So, it is prudent to assume cattle view an open gate as an invitation to access fresh grazing areas; they get excited and sometimes try to rush through an open gate creating a situation in which you may be injured; keep this in mind when entering or leaving areas that contain cattle. When opening gates in areas containing cattle, always pull the gate away from the direction of the cattle. By opening the gate in this manner, you are in effect creating a barrier between you and the cattle; when you move to close the gate it presents a much bigger barrier than your body alone, as well as eliminating the need to step into an open gateway to grab the gate to pull it closed.  In my experience, the slightest movement of the gate towards the cattle is the same as putting up a “red” traffic signal – they understand it means stop now!

3) Cattle love to scratch on things – just like humans, cattle get “itches”; to relieve itches, they scratch on objects. If you want a good laugh watch a cow scratching her rear end or her neck on a downed tree branch. Not so funny is when you catch her scratching on the rear view mirrors of your truck, your baling equipment, barn doors, etc. Bulls are very prone to scratching on objects. They can all be quite destructive trying to quell an itch! We tack barb wire to the barn doors and posts we do not want the cattle scratching on and do not leave equipment where they can access it. We do, however, leave a high stump or two in the pastures so they can relieve those itches!

4) Flowing water is not a barrier to cattle - we have a small creek that flows from our property under one of the perimeter fences onto our neighbor’s property. Because of the geography of the creek, when we pulled the new fences there was a small opening less than 18 inches between the lowest wire and the flowing water. We assumed due to the movement of the water, this would not present a problem – wrong! Our 1600 lb. bull discovered this and used it as an escape route; he took 6 cows with him - real bummer of a day for us! I wish I had had a camera on that spot and watched how he managed to wriggle through that space! After retrieving the escapees, we drove multiple metal posts in the creek spanning the opening, hung cinder blocks from the top of key posts to produce downward thrust and keep the water from pushing the posts out of alignment; then we put barb wire between the posts. That escape route was cut off! J

5) Calves can be goofy – it never fails if there is even a tiny opening in or under the fence, at least one calf will find it and escape. When the Mother realizes her calf is not around to nurse or the calf gets hungry and starts bawling for its Mother is when things get interesting. Both Mother and calf will be bawling and frantically march up and down the fence line. Unless the calf has managed to get out into area where injury is imminent, like a public roadway – I discovered it is best to just note where the calf got through the fence and back off, then come back in about an hour or so after the bawling starts. You will usually find the calf back on your side of the fence happily nursing. The calf will find and come back through the same hole, if not pressured by humans. Plug the hole up so you don’t have a repeat of this – at least not with that particular hole! Calves run and jump playing tag with each other; when you are trying to herd the cattle, they run in every direction except the one you want them to go. It is amazing the amount of trouble they can get into – I found one upside down in a feed trough struggling to get out, luckily she was small enough that I could up-end the trough and literally pour her out of it. They can be very curious and I am never surprised to turn around and find a group of them standing behind me watching what I am doing and then run away when they realize I have seen them.

6) Some cows hide their calves – like deer hide their newly-born fawns while they go off to graze, some cows will do the same with their newborns. They may hide them in tall grass, under bushes or trees. Never drive a vehicle, or any equipment through the pasture where these new Mothers are located unless you know exactly where all the calves are, else you run the risk of running over the calf and killing it. Additionally, when rotating cattle between pastures, take a head count and make sure all the calves get moved with the Mothers.

7) Cattle establish a social order – in any given herd the cattle will establish a social order. The cows can be seen pushing each other around in the pasture and sometimes get really aggressive with each other until one cow emerges as the dominant female; I call her the “Queen of the Pasture”. She will usually be the first through the gate, the first to the water or feed trough and if not, she pushes the others out of the way. Train the “Queen” and the others will follow her lead. If two mature bulls end up in the same pasture, whether they are purposely placed together or one breaks through a fence, it may initiate a struggle for dominance much more aggressive than that of the females. One or both of the bulls may be injured, sometimes to the point the animal(s) injuries prevent them from being used for breeding. It is best to keep mature bulls separated, especially during breeding time. There are few things that make your heart sink faster than watching your registered bull in a fight for dominance with the neighbor’s commercial grade bull that has broken through the perimeter fence!

8) Cattle have a routine – under normal circumstances, cattle develop a routine – time to drink, time to graze, and favorite places to lay in the shade and ruminate. For example, if your cattle typically arrive at a water source to drink twice a day take note of the average time when this is taking place. I can see the pond from my kitchen window, I know approximately what time they come down from the pastures to drink and watch for them; I take a “head-count”. If all are not there or I do not see them within 30 minutes to an hour of their normal time to drink, this is a signal that something has happened - I go out to look for the missing animals. They may have escaped the pasture, predators may be bothering the herd, a gate may have swung closed preventing their reaching the water source (this can be deadly to cattle during times of extreme heat), one of them may have been injured, etc. Being aware of the cattle’s routine can alert you to possible problems, so they can be dealt with expeditiously.

Folks, there is always something new to learn when working with livestock – they can be great teachers if you open your eyes, your mind, and your heart to them!

Lucky's Story

"Baby" Lucky

The first time I saw Lucky was while attending the Elkhart Horse Auction one cold November evening in 2003. A young boy standing near the entrance to the Auction facilities with a crate of puppies was diligently attempting to find homes for them.

Never one to pass up an opportunity to hug a puppy – I stopped to talk with the boy about the puppies and a story began to unfold – a litter of puppies, eight altogether, had been found wrapped in a plastic bag dumped alongside a roadway with the litter’s Mother (a border collie) near the young boy’s home. The boy and his brothers rescued the Mother and her litter only to have the Mother die shortly afterwards, so the boys bottle-fed the litter until they were old enough to be weaned and then set about finding homes for each of them.

A Little Sailor Needs a Nap

Lucky and the two other puppies at the Horse Auction were the last of the litter. While talking with the boy I lifted each puppy out of the crate and as I made eye contact with one in particular, I knew this puppy would be going home with me. I named him “Lucky” because after all he had been through he was lucky to be alive.

The Ranch Boss

As of the writing of this story Lucky has been with us for twelve years. He has taken life with us in stride, even on weekends spent on the sailboat. He has always been a laid back kind of guy until somebody says “squirrel”! Or he perceives something or someone in his territory without permission.

A great watch dog and companion, we are “lucky” to have him in our lives. Lucky has since been joined by Slim and Tucker—but that’s another story!



 

The Value in Training Cattle

Recently I had an appointment in town; as I drove up to the office I noticed a man hurriedly exit through the front door, race to his truck, and speed off. Unfortunately, the man in the truck had been the person I was to meet with; he left suddenly because he had received the dreaded call that all cattle owners hope to never receive, “the cattle are out!” I concluded my business with another employee and while driving home I was reminded of my own experience with the cattle getting out; I doubt I will ever forget that day.

Our original herd started with eleven heifers; from the day they arrived on the property, I began taking steps to train them, and all subsequent cattle, to come when called. This proved to be invaluable the day the cows, with their calves, managed to get through the perimeter fence onto the county road.

Luckily I was home the day this happened; but I was alone. I was working outside in the garden and just happened to look up and see the cows moseying down the roadway, calves by their side, stopping periodically to graze on the roadside grass as they moved towards an intersection less than a mile from our gate.

Now, when something like this happens timing can be critical to avoid disaster. Depending on where the cattle have escaped to, a cattle owner has some options:  1) try to muster a neighbor(s) to help herd the cattle back home,  2) locate a professional cowboy(s) with horses to help round up the herd, or 3) get them back yourself. The problem with the first two options is - you are dependent on other people being available and it takes time to get them on sight. In my case, I did not have time to wait for help; the cattle were not in a neighbor’s pasture, they were on the roadway and headed for the intersection!

I ran to the store room, filled the red bucket I used to give range cubes (treats) to the cattle as part of their training program, jumped in the Nissan Xterra, and stopping just long enough to open the front gate, drove onto the county road and eased up to the herd. The cows recognized the bright yellow Xterra; they stopped to watch it and moved to the side of the road as I slowly drove through and past the herd about 30 yards, then I turned the vehicle around and headed slowly back through the herd. The cows were still standing and staring at the Xterra; immediately past the herd I held the red bucket out the window at arms-length, rattled the treats in the bucket, yelled as loud as I could “come up” and very, very slowly drove back towards the gate to the ranch.

I just kept shaking that bucket extended out the window and yelling “come up”. My arm and hand were aching, my heart was pounding, I was praying those girls would obey me and no other vehicles would come down that road and frighten the herd, especially the calves, or hit one of them! I was about 60 – 70 feet from the herd, watching them in the rear view mirror, when as a group the cows turned and started to follow the Xterra. Yes, yes, yes!

Down the road we went like the Pied Piper, but with really large mice, to the music of those treats shaking in the red bucket, and my yelling “come up” – the calves bringing up the rear  - through the front gate and to the back pasture where I secured the herd. As I drove back to the house, the cows were happily munching the treats I poured from the red bucket!

The fence failed for several reasons – this pasture was originally just used for hay; its perimeter fence was composed of 4 strands of 2 barb wire with pull posts at each end of a 500 foot run of a fence line which was slightly curved as it followed the property lines along the roadway.  Shade is provided by trees along the roadway. As temperatures heated up during the day, the cattle sought relief from the heat by spreading out along the fence line and laying underneath the shades trees. This particular day, the cattle were attracted to a neighbor’s cattle across the roadway and so were concentrated together and pressing on the fence in one area.  This combination of factors exerted enough pressure on the fence to break two wires, thus creating a large enough opening for the cattle to escape.

We replaced the fencing with 6 strands of 4 barb wire, replaced all the metal t-posts with stout wooden posts, and additional pull-posts in the curved areas to better tighten the wire.  This not only gives more strength to the entire fence, but discourages the cattle from pressing on the wire or putting their heads between the wires and stretching it out of place.

Lessons learned – 1) we changed the use of this particular pasture - we should have reassessed the fencing taking into account the possibility of cattle across the roadway and strengthened the fence before it failed, and 2) the time and effort put into training the cattle paid off; when I needed it most the repetitious training kicked in and the cattle trusted if they came when called they would be rewarded, it’s just that simple. Not only did this training allow me to easily move the cattle within our pastures or into the corral as needed; it ultimately saved an unexpected situation from becoming a disaster.

The Real Gold

During a phone conversa - tion recently the caller expressed concern about a possible economic collapse in our country and asked me if I thought gold was good insurance in case this happened; I posed two questions as my response, 1) can you truly afford to lose money, perhaps a lot of money, and 2) in the event of a major disaster, do you feel confident that someone with food, knowing they may not be able to get more anytime in the near future, would be willing to sell their food – for any price? If yes, buy the gold, if not, rethink what you can buy that will provide the best value for your money towards disaster insurance.

I have seen gold prices as much as $2200.00 an ounce; as I write this today I found it for $1323.00 an ounce. So, anyone buying gold at $2200.00 an ounce has already lost $877.00 towards their “disaster insurance”. Precious metals are no different than the stock market; one day you might be a millionaire – the next day a pauper. This is not to say that you cannot make money if you buy when the price of gold is low and sell when it is high; however, in general, the people getting wealthy are the ones selling the gold, not the buyers.

If people want to spend their money buying gold as their insurance against disaster, I respect their decision; I do not personally embrace this method of preparing for disaster. It all boils down to most Americans cannot financially afford to own gold, but beyond that – you cannot eat gold! You can buy a lot of food for $2200.00 or $1323.00. In my opinion, buying gold in the absence of a well-managed food storage plan, is like buying “fool’s gold” – you are not getting the best value for the money you have to spend.

Every time a commercial airs on television touting ownership of gold to ensure economic well-being, I am reminded of the gold rush days in America, when miners were paying $8.00 for a bag of salt, $3.00 for an egg, or $20.00 for a steak that before the strike was $.25. Who was really wealthy under these circumstances – it was not the people with the gold! It was the people that owned and sold the necessities of life; they not only had the where will all to sustain themselves and their families, they had the ability to become wealthy by selling the necessities to people in need of these items with much less risk and hardship.

I recall a conversation between my Mother and I; Mother was a child during the Great Depression. One day I asked her how difficult it was for her and her family to live through this time in our country. Surprisingly, she said they hardly realized there was a depression; they lived on a small farm and raised or grew the bulk of their food. If they needed something the farm did not or could not produce, they bartered food for it. Prior to World War II, most Americans lived on farms and ranches; after World War II there was a mass exodus to the city and jobs in the factories.

I grew up in the city and as I aged I realized many Americans have lost much of the knowledge our ancestors used to sustain themselves, like gardening, animal husbandry, carpentry, hunting and fishing, etc. Gone are the days when most Americans owned a few acres on which to provide for themselves; the majority live in apartment complexes or on postage stamp size lots in the city or suburbs. They buy their food in the local supermarket, a few days’ worth at a time, so it will not spoil.

Prior to World War II, as had people on this planet for thousands of years before that, individuals and families  - our ancestors - prepared to sustain themselves through uncertain times by raising and growing their own food, then harvesting and preparing that food for storage – it was either canned, dried, salted, or stored in root cellars. This was their “gold” – their insurance against hard times.

Today, when word of a pending disaster is spread, people rush to the supermarket to “stock up” on necessities – not gold. The reality is that in America today, our supermarkets have on hand a few days’ worth of food at most and are unable to supply hundreds of people in the immediate area with emergency supplies in a matter of hours. A few days after Hurricane Ike went through our area, out of curiosity I went to a nearby supermarket, it looked like a plague of locust had been through it; not even a can of dog food was left on the shelves.

Disasters can take many forms - civil unrest, earthquakes, floods, forest fires, blizzards, hurricanes, meteor showers, drought – and wars. Loss of employment can mean financial disaster for many Americans. When Hurricane Rita, a Category 3 storm, hit East Texas in 2005, it caused wide spread flooding from storm surges, heavy rain and high winds. There were residents of East Texas without electricity and running water for months. We can never fully predict the future, we can only prepare to the weather the “storms” we encounter in life as best we can. Attempts to prepare should not take place the day before the disaster hits!

Today, people who prepare to weather the hard times might be called – dare I say the word - “Preppers”! I have heard all the jokes and all the different definitions for “Preppers” – but the one that truly represents this group of people is – “a Prepper is a person who takes personal responsibility and self-reliance seriously”. Granted some people take prepping to an extreme, like moving to the wilds of Alaska or living in a cave in the Arizona desert – hey, I don’t have a problem with someone who feels this is right for them; but for most Americans, this is not reality or a desired life-style.

There is a particular group that encourages its members to store at least one year’s worth of food as a buffer against hard times; however, starting out with a one to three month supply is a good goal and can be expanded, if desired, as you become knowledgeable. Even a two-week supply is more than some people keep on hand!

There are a lot of reasons why storing food is smart, 1) foremost, it may save your life and that of your family in the event of a disaster, 2) it is a buffer against rising prices in food – you can buy bulk supplies of staple goods on sale, i.e., canned vegetables, sugar, flour, grains, beans, etc., thereby saving money, 3) stored food can help sustain you and your family through economic hardships, such as job losses or major health issues, 4) it can, particularly specialty items, be used as barter, and last but not least,  5) it provides  a sense of security in a World seemingly gone insane!

All Americans should take responsibility for learning to grow their own food – be it in their back yard or as part of a community garden. All Americans should have a food storage plan as a buffer against disaster. I hear people say they don’t have the money to buy extra food just to store it; the question is – can you afford not to do so? With a good food storage plan, the food is not just being stored; it is rotated and replaced as used so the amount on hand does not fall below sustainable levels. Everyone can find some extra money in their budget – quit smoking cigarettes, rent a movie for the entire family to watch at home instead of going to the movies and spending a small fortune on junk food while there, forego that $100.00 dress that you don’t need – the money is there, look for it!

Developing a personal food storage plan can be a challenge, but it can also be fun. A well thought out, well managed food storage plan is worth its weight in gold. If someone calls you a “Prepper” just smile and take it as a compliment – because one day you may be the person with the “real gold”, the priceless bags of salt, rice, beans and sugar!

Ten Things to Consider When Selecting an Apiary Location

For the novice beekeeper, locating his/her hives in an area that is conducive to regular visits is very important for two reasons—watching the activity of the bees in and around each hive is part of the learning process; it helps to differentiate between what is normal bee hive activity and what is not. This is essential to successful beekeeping!

 

Additionally, new hives will require regular monitoring to ensure the queen bee has been released, (as is the case with “package bees”), the queen is present in the hive and laying eggs, and the overall population and health of the colony is progressing as expected.

 

Here are ten things to consider when selecting a location for your apiary:

 

Check out local laws and restrictions.  This is absolutely the first step in your plan for beekeeping! The location of your apiary may be limited by local ordinances and other restrictions, including homeowner association rules and regulations. Additionally, permits may be required. It is best to be aware of and deal with these issues early in the decision making process or you may find yourself on the nasty end of a lawsuit.

 

Locate the hives near a clean source of water. Bees use a lot of water, not only for satisfying their own thirst, but to help cool the hive during the heat of our long, hot Texas summers. Do not place the hive in a gulley—the air will be damp and still, thus creating an unhealthy environment. If there is not a nearby source of clean water, you will need to provide one for them.

 

Placing a bird bath or other shallow water source near your hives with some small rocks above water level for the bees to safely land on and drink will provide adequate water.  If you will not be able to check on your bee’s water source daily, a 5-gallon bucket will suffice. Drill some small drainage holes a few inches from the top of the bucket. Fill the bucket to just below the drainage holes and drop some Styrofoam packing kernels in the bucket. The rain will help to renew the water in the bucket, the packing kernels provide “landing pads” for the bees to perch on and avoid drowning while drinking, and the drain holes keep the bucket from filling up and dumping the packing kernels out of the bucket. In the best case scenario, the rain will keep it filled, but check on it regularly, and keep the bucket filled, clean, and sanitary. You can also buy commercially available watering devices for your bees.

 

The apiary must be accessible by vehicle. Bee hives, when filled with bees and honey, can be very heavy; ensure you can easily get a vehicle into and out of the apiary for hive setup and maintenance. Save your back, ensure you can park directly behind or beside your hives! Having your vehicle on hand is convenient for accessing tools and equipment parts as needed while inspecting your hives or pulling honey supers from the hive for honey extraction.

Keep in mind relocation of your hives may be required during emergency situations, such as forest fires or rising tides from an approaching tropical storm. Have a plan for emergency evacuation of your hives!

Provide some security and privacy for your bees. It is advisable to place your hives in a fenced, locked area so they are less apt to be seen by passersby. Beekeepers have had their hives destroyed by vandals and even stolen. Fencing will additionally keep small children, pets, and livestock away from the hives, as well as known “hive raiders”, such as skunks. There is some evidence that bees are sensitive to the presence of horses – give this serious consideration when selecting a location for your hives. Do not locate your hive adjacent to areas of high foot traffic or areas, such as patios where food will be served, especially sweets, or you will have uninvited guests - many, many of them!

Place your hive on firm ground with good drainage. If placed on ground that has poor drainage or very loose soil, you run the risk of the hive becoming unstable. As it sinks into the soil, it may collapse and kill your bees. Beekeepers placing their hives in areas with poor drainage risk vehicles becoming mired in mud as well, and the area may become totally inaccessible, even by foot, during certain times of the year.

Adequate sunlight and shade. The hives should have southern or eastern exposure to provide adequate sunlight. Place the hives facing southeast, so the sun pours into the hive entrance and serves as an alarm clock to wake up your bees. Avoid placing the hives in deep shade from trees or structures. Your hives will do well with non-evergreen trees located to the west and southwest of their position as they will receive afternoon shade during the summer’s peak temperatures, and benefit from the sun’s warming rays during the late fall and winter.

Provide windbreaks in the direction of the prevailing winds.  Placing your hives behind a windbreak - and additionally wrapping each hive if the winter is extremely cold and/or windy - will help the bees maintain required heat levels during severe weather and reduce consumption of winter food stores in the hive. DO NOT BLOCK THE HIVE ENTRANCE UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!

Avoid placing the hive on a hilltop where it can be buffeted by winter winds or in gullies where the air will be damp and still.

Setting the Hive in Place

Do not set the hive in contact with the ground. To minimize damp conditions and reduce deterioration of the hive’s woodenware, the bottom board of the hive should not be set directly on the ground. Any number of solutions to this issue is available from commercially offered hive stands to placing the hive on concrete blocks, or homemade tables, etc. As the colony grows and additional brood boxes/honey supers are added to the hive, the stand upon which the hive has been placed must be sturdy enough to support the added weigh and remain stable or the hive may collapse.  Some beekeepers in areas prone to raids by skunks place their hives on stands at least 18 inches off the ground – as the “raiders” stretch to reach the hive entrance, their underbelly is exposed to the bees’ sting. Do not make tables or stands so high you cannot safely lift the boxes off the hive for maintenance or honey harvest.

Further deterring of unwanted visitors can be achieved by placing a board with protruding tacks in front of the hive—it will be extremely uncomfortable footing. As an alternative, a small roll of barbed or other wire that will not block access by the bees, but keep predators from reaching the hive entrance, may be employed.

Mulch or old carpet placed around the hive will keep down weeds and tall grasses, so the hive is easily accessible by bees in flight. If using a screened bottom board - clear, accessible space beneath the hive will enhance keeping the area clean of debris.

Tilt hive and face away from prevailing winds. The hive, when set in place, is best facing away from prevailing winds to aid the bees in keeping the hive warm during inclement weather. Tilt the hive very slightly forward. Inevitably rain will blow inside the hive, by tilting the hive slightly forward the water will automatically drain once the storm has passed. This will keep the hive’s bottom board and entrance dry and free from mildew and mold.

Place a small weight on outer hive cover.  High winds can easily blow the cover off your hive and expose the bees to rain, wind, and chilling temperatures thus killing your bees. Reduce the chance of this happening by placing some weight on the hive cover - a small rock or two will usually be sufficient. Small, flat concrete garden border blocks work well.

Bottom line, the time to make decisions about how and where to setup your hive is not the day you take possession of the bees. Some forethought will get your beekeeping venture off to the good start!