Saturday, January 30, 2016

Six Methods to Control Snails and Slugs in Your Garden


While I no longer live on the Gulf Coast, one particular year there is forever imprinted in my memory. The snail infestation was so bad each morning I would find dozens upon dozens on the outside doors and walls of the house, the upper porch, the steps and handrails of the staircase to the porch, every walkway – even on my car! The damage being done to the plants in the yard and planters was beyond anything I had ever seen. Gardening has its challenges and one of those is combating snails and slugs! 

If the spring of 2016 is anything like the spring of 2015 with its frequent periods of rain every week, we will see a population explosion of snails and slugs; they absolutely thrive in moist, humid environments like those of the Texas Gulf Coast and East Texas.

As nocturnal feeders, snails and slugs may rarely be seen feeding, but if you find slime trails around your garden area and holes chewed in your leafy, green garden plants the culprits are without a doubt snails or slugs. 

Snails are mollusks; mollusks are invertebrate animals with a soft unsegmented body usually enclosed in a calcareous shell. While the snails themselves can be destructive to our vegetation, they also serve as intermediate hosts to parasites, such as liver flukes. The subject of liver flukes is way beyond this article, but suffice to say depending on the area of the world and the species of fluke in the environment - livestock, including cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, and poultry, not to mention cats, dogs, and humans may become infected by these damaging parasitic worms. So, in my book any dead snail is a “good” snail - period!

Methods available for combating snails and slugs in the garden include – chemical applications, non-chemical applications, habitat modification, direct intervention, the introduction of natural predators, and the selection of deterrent plants. 

1) Chemical applications – Metaldehyde, is the active ingredient in many off-the-shelf products and is the most common chemical used for combating snails and slugs; however, there have been reports of children, pets – particularly dogs and cats - and bird poisonings (some fatal) from ingesting this chemical. If used, extreme care should be exercised in following all the manufacturer’s label recommendations! 

2) Non-chemicals applications - I lean towards integrated pest management (IPM), especially the environmentally friendly methods. For example, in lieu of the toxic Metaldehyde I prefer ferric phosphate – sometimes known as iron phosphate – it is commonly found in nature and is not harmful to humans, birds, animals, or the environment. When applied on the soil in pellet form as a bait, snails and slugs are attracted to and ingest the ferric phosphate pellets which interferes with their digestion – the snails and slugs stop eating and die within a few days. I have used ferric phosphate in my gardens for several years now and have been very pleased with the results – and yes, it may be used in an organic program with restrictions which require the use of preventative, mechanical, physical, and other pest, weed, and disease management practices. Check http://www.omri.org/omri-lists for products such as “Sluggo” that contain ferric phosphate or visit your local garden center. 

It should be noted that some of the ferric phosphate products available on today’s market contain active ingredients other than just ferric phosphate – I do not use these products. As with all substances you are going to place in your garden – whether a pellet, spray, or powder – take the time to read the product label carefully and completely. Identify the product’s active ingredients, target pests, how to correctly apply the product, and any known hazards with its usage before you introduce it into your garden! Any “extra” active ingredients may not meet organic requirements. I often research active ingredients separate from product labels to get a broader spectrum of information – and am often surprised over the results of these independent searches. 

During my research I came across a staff publication by the USDA National Wildlife Research Center, University of Nebraska – Lincoln. The publication reported on testing the use of a 2% solution of caffeine sprayed either directly onto snails/slugs or on the soil in which slugs have burrowed; they had success with this but also noted that it did have some adverse effect on the surrounding plants. So, far, I have not been able to find any indication that further testing has been done using caffeine as a control method although there are many articles from many sources on the Internet touting its use. Folks, my question is – will this caffeine solution affect the pollen and nectar of plants? At this point, I do not know - until and unless I see some test results from additional science centers, I will forego using this method, mainly because of the pollinators – the birds, all the different bees and other beneficial insects that I try to encourage to take up residence in my garden. I know I can use other methods for control that are safe and proven to work. Additionally, I have found some indication that this method of control may not meet all organic program requirements; if you are organic, be sure to check this out before using caffeine in the garden. 

3) Habitat modification - Another approach is to alter the environment which snails and slugs use as refuge and breeding grounds by removing debris and dense ground cover, such as ivy and other succulents, stacks of boards and wood, and large wood chip mulches from the garden area. Thin out the plants to improve air circulation and use a mulch containing materials with thick, jagged edges such as eggshells. Snails have soft underbellies and will avoid anything sharp or prickly. 

4) Direct intervention - Try utilizing barriers such as a simple line of table salt around the outer garden bed, wood ash, diatomaceous earth, sawdust, copper backed paper or sheeting, sand, sulphur, animal or human hair, pine needles, thistle leaves, or straw. Keep an eye on your barriers as some of them may need to be re-built from time to time, especially after a hard rain or strong wind. Table salt, while very effective in combating snails, is fatal to plants. It should be used sparingly and never applied directly to the garden beds. Instead lay a small line of salt on a driveway or sidewalk that appears to be a regularly traveled path for the snails or slugs.
 
Set traps - snails love sweet things such as sugar water, fruit juice, soda pop and believe it or not, beer! For a homemade trap using one of the liquids, partially fill a plastic pot with a tight fitting lid and slots cut into the side, bury it in the ground to the level of the opening. Snails fall in and are incapable of getting out of the trap. Additionally, small boards raised slightly (1 inch) off the ground serve as effective traps. Snails will attach themselves to the boards during the day and can easily be found and destroyed. Commercially made traps are also available through garden centers and the Internet. 

Do hand combat – go out to the garden, find, and hand pick the snails from your plants and surrounding areas, such as trees, walls, and stones. Once captured, you can easily destroy the snails by dropping them in salty water or crushing them. 

5) Introduce natural predators - Bring in the support troops – fortunately snails have many natural enemies; among them are frogs and toads. Whenever possible, create a small pond in the garden to encourage frogs and toads to make their home there. The smaller ones love self-watering pots. Frogs and toads are great – no plant damage and they eat other garden pests, as well as snails!  Chickens, ducks, and guinea hens consider snails a tasty snack; people who own and allow them to free range seldom encounter snail and slug problems on their property. 

6) Deterrent plants  - And lastly, consider some plants for your ornamental garden that are less prone to snail damage such as ornamental grasses, impatiens, rosemary, sage, lavender, begonias, nasturtiums, narcissus, geranium (cranesbill), alyssum, roses, daylilies, and hydrangea. 

There is no need to live with snails and slugs destroying your garden or compromising the health of you, your pets, and livestock when you have so many different options available for controlling them – and most are environmentally friendly as well!

Saturday, January 23, 2016

Five Reasons to Grow Swiss chard


Looking for a delicious and nutritious plant for your spring or fall vegetable garden that is easy to grow – try Swiss chard!
 
There are many good reasons for adding Swiss chard to your garden - 
 
1) Nutrient rich - A member of the beet family, Chard is grown for its delicious edible leaves and stems. “Nutrient rich” - it serves as an excellent source of vitamins and minerals, including but not limited to, Vitamins K, A, C, E, B2 and B6, magnesium, iron, calcium and potassium.
 
2) Easy to grow - Novice gardeners will find it is easy to grow from seed. It is heat tolerant and will outperform other greens. Chard is capable of withstanding light frosts and moderate freezes. With a little care and forethought it can be grown almost year-round in southeastern Texas including the coastal area.
 
Although seed manufacturers suggest planting Chard in full sun, they obviously don’t live in southeastern Texas! Providing Chard with some shade in the late summer afternoon is beneficial in our climate. When overheated Chard will lie down almost flat on the ground – just give it a good watering and it will recover.
 
3) Beautiful plant - Chard is an excellent choice for edible landscape planting in the traditional garden, or in containers and does well in an average soil with some compost and good drainage.  Chard produces thick, dark green leaves; its stems, depending on the variety grown, range in color from creamy white to red, while the “Bright Lights” variety stems display many colors of the rainbow.
 
4) Few diseases or pests - This plant is almost disease and pest free with snails and slugs being the biggest issue. “Sluggo” can very effectively control these pests; it is a natural product based on iron phosphate, which is safe for your family, pets, and other critters, such as birds and bees that may visit your garden.
 
Good companion plants for Chard are beans, Brassica family members (i.e. broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussel sprouts, kale, etc.), and onions; there are no known bad companions for Chard.
 
5) Prolific producer - Chard averages 12 – 18 inches in height and can be harvested 60 days after planting or when it is about 6 inches tall. Swiss chard is a good “cut and come again” plant - to harvest sever some of the outer leaves about 1 inch above the ground; leave the rest. Occasional harvesting in this manner will encourage the plant to continue producing quality greens for your table long term. Harvest the leaves early in the day.
 
For best results use Chard immediately after it is harvested, although it will keep in the refrigerator for a day or two when placed in a plastic baggie with a slightly moist paper towel. Chard is versatile in the kitchen, equally delicious on its own or used as a substitute for any recipe requiring spinach. Chard is a definite winner both in the garden and in the kitchen!

Monday, January 4, 2016

Honey Bee Swarms

During the spring and summer months each year large clusters of honey bees are sometimes found hanging from limbs of trees, the eaves of homes, under lawn furniture, on car bumpers and other objects. The act that caused the honey bees to cluster outside of their hive is called “swarming”; it is a natural occurrence among honey bees.
 
There are many reasons for swarming – the hive has become overpopulated and congested; the colony has become diseased or is starving, or in some instances natural causes such as a forest fire may prompt the entire colony to swarm. The purpose of the act of swarming, no matter what the cause, is to ensure the survival of and to perpetuate the species.
 
In the Northern Hemisphere, the Honey Bee queen usually suspends egg laying in first week of November; this is to allow the population of the colony to contract to help preserve and prolong the food stores in the hive during the coming winter. She begins laying eggs again around January 9th in an effort to increase the number of bees in the colony in preparation for the coming spring nectar flows, thus swarming tends to happen during the months of April, May and June; the hive is becoming congested as the population increases and more area in the hive is taken up for the storage of pollen and honey. However, swarming can also happen in late summer and early fall.

When conditions prompt the urge to swarm, the colony begins to prepare for the swarm and on a predetermined signal, thousands of honey bees (the swarm) will leave the hive with the resident queen. The swarm will usually settle on something nearby – a tree, a building, lawn furniture, etc., - awaiting communication of a new nest location from their “scout bees”. Once the new nest location has been discovered, the entire swarm will relocate – usually within 24 hours - and begin the arduous job of building a new colony. In general, Honey Bee swarms are very docile since there is no nest to defend. But it is prudent not to disturb the bees; if you happen upon one just remain calm and quietly leave the area.
 
The problem begins if the scouts cannot find an optimal location for the swarm to re-locate to permanently. In this case, the swarm will move into the nearest protected area for self preservation. This is not always conducive to good neighbor relations as oftentimes it’s someone’s attic, garage, mailbox, or even an AC unit.
The nests can easily get quite large and begin causing problems within the structure itself from dripping honey and weight. To cure the problem, both the bees and the honey comb must be removed! Otherwise, the honey comb if left behind will attract another swarm of bees, or other insects, including ants and roaches, and will cause mold and mildew to form in and around the nest, as well. So, prompt action on the part of the homeowner at the first sign of the bees can minimize the possibility of future structure damage.
For help with honey bee swarms contact your local beekeepers' association, your local Agricultural Extension Office, or a professional pest control company for assistance.
**Photo courtesy, George Rodriguez, Owner - Rose of Sharon Honey, Pearland, Texas.