Thursday, August 11, 2016

Fresh Fig Chutney



A few weeks ago our fig tree was in overdrive producing more than 2 lbs. of figs per day. I was drying figs, freezing figs, eating figs straight from the tree – finally I decided it was time to try something new – a fresh fig chutney. This was my first chutney and I was very pleased with the results. You will notice there are five 12-ounce jars; originally there were 6 but that one never made it past our dinner table. The first night we tried it with beef which was good, but it was absolutely wonderful the second night with pork. So, if you like pork and like figs, you might consider giving this recipe a try!

Ingredients:

2 lbs. fresh figs – rinsed and chopped into small cubes
4 apples – cored, peeled and chopped into small cubes
2 medium onions, finely chopped
8 oz. raisins
5 oz. ginger – peeled and grated
4 cloves of garlic – peeled and finely chopped
2 lbs. dark brown sugar
2 TBS salt
½ tsp. cinnamon
2 TBS yellow mustard seeds.
4 cups cider vinegar with the Mother

Instructions:

Place all the ingredients in a large pan and bring to a boil. Continuing cooking on low heat until the
liquid has reduced and the mixture has thickened to a consistency similar to jam. Stirring occasionally to ensure no sticking to the pan.

Place the mixture into hot sterilized glass mason canning jars with sterilized lids and bands. I used six 12-ounce quilted jar just because that was what I had on hand at the time.The cooking time to reduce the mixture to a jam-like consistency will depend on the size of the pan you use – it may be from 2 – 4 hours. Since I have a gas stove-top and there is no such thing as “low heat” on the thing (it is either off or boiling temperature), so I used an old, deep electric skillet. Now, I know why I kept insisting on keeping that skillet when my husband was urging me to get rid of it to save space! 

Be prepared for a very pungent smell in the house when this is cooking; but not to worry, the smell will dissipate as the mixture thickens. If you have a fan vent over your stove turn it on or if the weather is good open the kitchen window.

Once the mixture has been placed in the canning jars leaving ½ inch headspace in each jar. Remove the air bubbles and adjust headspace if needed. Wipe the rims of the jars with a dampened, clean paper towel; adjust the two-piece metal canning lids (lid and band). The lid and band should be “finger-tip tight”, to me this means tighten the band until you feel good resistance – do not crank down on the lid like Tarzan! You want the lid tight but it must be able to expel air during processing.

Once filled, place the jars in a boiling water-bath canner – process the jars at a rolling boil for 10 minutes.If this is your first time canning, I recommend you read Principles of Home Canning.

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Ranch House Shepherd's Pie



Shepherd’s Pie has been around for ages; traditionally, it is made with lamb, but beef works equally well.
It is considered one of the great comfort foods by many and is a meal in itself as it contains protein, veggies, and a tasty gravy.
But if you want something a little extra, a Spinach Salad and some crusty bread will make for a filling, well-rounded meal. 
This recipe makes 4-6 servings.
 
Ingredients:
 
Potato Topping
1 ½ to 2 lbs. of white potatoes, peeled, chopped into 1/2'’ cubes
2 TBS butter
¼ cup milk
1 egg yolk
Filling:
1.5 lbs. ground sirloin or lamb
1 to 1 ¼ TBS olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cups fresh or frozen English peas
1 cup fresh or frozen carrots, diced
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper
1 tsp rosemary
1 TBS Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp thyme
1 tsp paprika (optional)
Gravy:
2 TBS flour
3 TBS butter
1 cup beef broth (Swanson 100% Natural Beef Broth – reduced sodium, works well)
Directions:
Potato Topping:
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil; carefully place the cubed potatoes in the pot and allow to cook until they are tender enough to be easily pierced by a fork but firm. Remove pot from stove and drain contents into a large colander. Once the cooking water has been drained place the potatoes back in the pot, add the butter, egg yolk, and milk; using a hand mixer mash the potatoes until the mixture is almost smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover pot and set aside.
Gravy:
In a small pan under low to medium heat, melt 3 TBS butter and then stir in flour, slowly stir in beef broth to create a gravy. Cover pan and set aside.
Filling:
Preheat oven to 375°.
Place olive oil in a large skillet with the carrots and sauté until tender, add the onions and cook until they being to change color. Add the ground sirloin or lamb, cook on low heat, crumbling the ground meat as it cooks (if excess fat accumulates in pan, dip it out). Just before the meat has finished browning add the minced garlic.
Once the meat has browned (meaning it is no longer pink in color) add the gravy mixture to the skillet containing the meat and vegetables; add the peas, rosemary, thyme, salt, black pepper, and Worcestershire sauce, stirring to mix well, and let mixture simmer for 5 minutes.
Lightly grease a 2 quart casserole dish with a small pat of butter to help prevent sticking. Spoon the meat and vegetable mixture evenly in the dish. Using a different spoon, spread the mashed potato mix evenly over the top of the meat and vegetable mixture fluffing the potato mixture to give it a slight meringue look.
If using paprika, sprinkle lightly over the top fluffed potato mixture and place the casserole dish in the preheated oven. If your casserole dish is extremely full, place dish on a cookie sheet or some aluminum foil on the bottom of the oven to catch any drips that might occur.
Bake for 20 minutes or just until the potatoes have turned a golden brown – whichever occurs first. Remove from oven and let cool 5 -10 minutes before serving.
Note: Easiest way to grease the casserole is place the small pat of butter in the dish and either with your fingers or a paper towel rub the butter all round inside the dish making sure you coat all surfaces inside the pan.

Sunday, February 14, 2016

Storm Preparation for Beekeepers


When I see the daffodils blooming, I know winter is beginning to loose it's hold on the Texas Gulf Coast. As the weather warms beekeepers will be checking their hives regularly along with making plans for the coming spring nectar flows. This is a good time to consider the upcoming hurricane season, June 1 through November 30, while making plans.

For beekeepers, stormy weather poses annual challenges in protecting and preserving their hives. Rising water can inundate hives and destroy or temporarily render forage unavailable. High winds and debris can knock over hives or blow off hive tops exposing the bees and brood to the elements.

Depending on government mandated evacuation plans and/or the severity of the storm, beekeepers may be unable to check the condition of their hives for an extended period of time before and after the storm.

I vividly recall September 13, 2008, when Hurricane Ike came roaring ashore along the Texas Gulf Coast pushing storm surges as high as two story buildings and packing winds of 110 miles per hour. The devastation left behind was tremendous – loss of life for some residents that decided to ride out the storm in their homes and property damage in the billions, including massive livestock loss. The ecological damage as storm surges pushed salt water inland destroying lawns, gardens, orchards, and pasture lands was staggering. Beekeepers were not left untouched – many hives were lost or damaged by Hurricane Ike.

Pre-planning can improve your hives storm survival rate -  

  1. Avoid locating hives in low-laying areas known to be susceptible to rising waters from storm surges, rivers, lakes, and streams. If your hives must be located in low-laying areas, be prepared to move them quickly in advance of any event that could inundate the hives with rising water, such as a strong tropical event. HAVE A PLAN - identify necessary equipment, re-location site, and time required to execute the move in conjunction with other storm preparations required for your home and family.
  2. When choosing a location for your hives, consider avoiding areas overly susceptible to falling debris from downed trees, broken tree limbs, and power lines.
  3. During hive setup place hives on stands or platforms 12 – 18 inches off the ground to curtail damage from rainwater runoff and leaching of ground moisture into the hive. Excessive moisture deteriorates hive equipment and creates an environment conducive to buildup of mold and mildew in the hive. Placing the hive on a platform also deters damage from critters such as skunks since stretching to reach the hive opening exposes their soft underbellies to bee stings. 
  4. Always keep some weight on your hive covers to prevent wind gusts from blowing the covers off the hive. Garden border bricks work well for this application.
  5. If under normal conditions you cock your hive covers up to promote ventilation, lower the cover in preparation of strong storms while being careful not to stifle air flow by blocking the upper hive entrance in the inner hive cover. Remember, the bees need air!
  6. If extremely high winds are expected, consider placing tie downs on each hive.
  7. If you use screened bottom boards, insert the tray in the bottom board to prevent excessive wind gusts through the hive.
  8. Check food stores – it may be several days to weeks before you can get to your hives after a severe storm event. If food stores are low, consider feeding your bees to ensure they don’t suffer from the post-storm loss of forage. A division board feeder is a good choice in this instance as it replaces an empty frame inside the hive and thus, will not be affected by high winds during the storm.
  9. Remove supers from the hives to reduce wind resistance and preserve your honey harvest.
  10. Hives located on property other than your own, should have clear ownership identification marks.
This is certainly not a complete list of everything that may need to be done; it’s a good start. A little pre-planning can go a long way to ensuring your bees are alive and well after a strong storm event!



















































































 








 
 
 
 
 

Saturday, January 30, 2016

Six Methods to Control Snails and Slugs in Your Garden


While I no longer live on the Gulf Coast, one particular year there is forever imprinted in my memory. The snail infestation was so bad each morning I would find dozens upon dozens on the outside doors and walls of the house, the upper porch, the steps and handrails of the staircase to the porch, every walkway – even on my car! The damage being done to the plants in the yard and planters was beyond anything I had ever seen. Gardening has its challenges and one of those is combating snails and slugs! 

If the spring of 2016 is anything like the spring of 2015 with its frequent periods of rain every week, we will see a population explosion of snails and slugs; they absolutely thrive in moist, humid environments like those of the Texas Gulf Coast and East Texas.

As nocturnal feeders, snails and slugs may rarely be seen feeding, but if you find slime trails around your garden area and holes chewed in your leafy, green garden plants the culprits are without a doubt snails or slugs. 

Snails are mollusks; mollusks are invertebrate animals with a soft unsegmented body usually enclosed in a calcareous shell. While the snails themselves can be destructive to our vegetation, they also serve as intermediate hosts to parasites, such as liver flukes. The subject of liver flukes is way beyond this article, but suffice to say depending on the area of the world and the species of fluke in the environment - livestock, including cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, and poultry, not to mention cats, dogs, and humans may become infected by these damaging parasitic worms. So, in my book any dead snail is a “good” snail - period!

Methods available for combating snails and slugs in the garden include – chemical applications, non-chemical applications, habitat modification, direct intervention, the introduction of natural predators, and the selection of deterrent plants. 

1) Chemical applications – Metaldehyde, is the active ingredient in many off-the-shelf products and is the most common chemical used for combating snails and slugs; however, there have been reports of children, pets – particularly dogs and cats - and bird poisonings (some fatal) from ingesting this chemical. If used, extreme care should be exercised in following all the manufacturer’s label recommendations! 

2) Non-chemicals applications - I lean towards integrated pest management (IPM), especially the environmentally friendly methods. For example, in lieu of the toxic Metaldehyde I prefer ferric phosphate – sometimes known as iron phosphate – it is commonly found in nature and is not harmful to humans, birds, animals, or the environment. When applied on the soil in pellet form as a bait, snails and slugs are attracted to and ingest the ferric phosphate pellets which interferes with their digestion – the snails and slugs stop eating and die within a few days. I have used ferric phosphate in my gardens for several years now and have been very pleased with the results – and yes, it may be used in an organic program with restrictions which require the use of preventative, mechanical, physical, and other pest, weed, and disease management practices. Check http://www.omri.org/omri-lists for products such as “Sluggo” that contain ferric phosphate or visit your local garden center. 

It should be noted that some of the ferric phosphate products available on today’s market contain active ingredients other than just ferric phosphate – I do not use these products. As with all substances you are going to place in your garden – whether a pellet, spray, or powder – take the time to read the product label carefully and completely. Identify the product’s active ingredients, target pests, how to correctly apply the product, and any known hazards with its usage before you introduce it into your garden! Any “extra” active ingredients may not meet organic requirements. I often research active ingredients separate from product labels to get a broader spectrum of information – and am often surprised over the results of these independent searches. 

During my research I came across a staff publication by the USDA National Wildlife Research Center, University of Nebraska – Lincoln. The publication reported on testing the use of a 2% solution of caffeine sprayed either directly onto snails/slugs or on the soil in which slugs have burrowed; they had success with this but also noted that it did have some adverse effect on the surrounding plants. So, far, I have not been able to find any indication that further testing has been done using caffeine as a control method although there are many articles from many sources on the Internet touting its use. Folks, my question is – will this caffeine solution affect the pollen and nectar of plants? At this point, I do not know - until and unless I see some test results from additional science centers, I will forego using this method, mainly because of the pollinators – the birds, all the different bees and other beneficial insects that I try to encourage to take up residence in my garden. I know I can use other methods for control that are safe and proven to work. Additionally, I have found some indication that this method of control may not meet all organic program requirements; if you are organic, be sure to check this out before using caffeine in the garden. 

3) Habitat modification - Another approach is to alter the environment which snails and slugs use as refuge and breeding grounds by removing debris and dense ground cover, such as ivy and other succulents, stacks of boards and wood, and large wood chip mulches from the garden area. Thin out the plants to improve air circulation and use a mulch containing materials with thick, jagged edges such as eggshells. Snails have soft underbellies and will avoid anything sharp or prickly. 

4) Direct intervention - Try utilizing barriers such as a simple line of table salt around the outer garden bed, wood ash, diatomaceous earth, sawdust, copper backed paper or sheeting, sand, sulphur, animal or human hair, pine needles, thistle leaves, or straw. Keep an eye on your barriers as some of them may need to be re-built from time to time, especially after a hard rain or strong wind. Table salt, while very effective in combating snails, is fatal to plants. It should be used sparingly and never applied directly to the garden beds. Instead lay a small line of salt on a driveway or sidewalk that appears to be a regularly traveled path for the snails or slugs.
 
Set traps - snails love sweet things such as sugar water, fruit juice, soda pop and believe it or not, beer! For a homemade trap using one of the liquids, partially fill a plastic pot with a tight fitting lid and slots cut into the side, bury it in the ground to the level of the opening. Snails fall in and are incapable of getting out of the trap. Additionally, small boards raised slightly (1 inch) off the ground serve as effective traps. Snails will attach themselves to the boards during the day and can easily be found and destroyed. Commercially made traps are also available through garden centers and the Internet. 

Do hand combat – go out to the garden, find, and hand pick the snails from your plants and surrounding areas, such as trees, walls, and stones. Once captured, you can easily destroy the snails by dropping them in salty water or crushing them. 

5) Introduce natural predators - Bring in the support troops – fortunately snails have many natural enemies; among them are frogs and toads. Whenever possible, create a small pond in the garden to encourage frogs and toads to make their home there. The smaller ones love self-watering pots. Frogs and toads are great – no plant damage and they eat other garden pests, as well as snails!  Chickens, ducks, and guinea hens consider snails a tasty snack; people who own and allow them to free range seldom encounter snail and slug problems on their property. 

6) Deterrent plants  - And lastly, consider some plants for your ornamental garden that are less prone to snail damage such as ornamental grasses, impatiens, rosemary, sage, lavender, begonias, nasturtiums, narcissus, geranium (cranesbill), alyssum, roses, daylilies, and hydrangea. 

There is no need to live with snails and slugs destroying your garden or compromising the health of you, your pets, and livestock when you have so many different options available for controlling them – and most are environmentally friendly as well!

Saturday, January 23, 2016

Five Reasons to Grow Swiss chard


Looking for a delicious and nutritious plant for your spring or fall vegetable garden that is easy to grow – try Swiss chard!
 
There are many good reasons for adding Swiss chard to your garden - 
 
1) Nutrient rich - A member of the beet family, Chard is grown for its delicious edible leaves and stems. “Nutrient rich” - it serves as an excellent source of vitamins and minerals, including but not limited to, Vitamins K, A, C, E, B2 and B6, magnesium, iron, calcium and potassium.
 
2) Easy to grow - Novice gardeners will find it is easy to grow from seed. It is heat tolerant and will outperform other greens. Chard is capable of withstanding light frosts and moderate freezes. With a little care and forethought it can be grown almost year-round in southeastern Texas including the coastal area.
 
Although seed manufacturers suggest planting Chard in full sun, they obviously don’t live in southeastern Texas! Providing Chard with some shade in the late summer afternoon is beneficial in our climate. When overheated Chard will lie down almost flat on the ground – just give it a good watering and it will recover.
 
3) Beautiful plant - Chard is an excellent choice for edible landscape planting in the traditional garden, or in containers and does well in an average soil with some compost and good drainage.  Chard produces thick, dark green leaves; its stems, depending on the variety grown, range in color from creamy white to red, while the “Bright Lights” variety stems display many colors of the rainbow.
 
4) Few diseases or pests - This plant is almost disease and pest free with snails and slugs being the biggest issue. “Sluggo” can very effectively control these pests; it is a natural product based on iron phosphate, which is safe for your family, pets, and other critters, such as birds and bees that may visit your garden.
 
Good companion plants for Chard are beans, Brassica family members (i.e. broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussel sprouts, kale, etc.), and onions; there are no known bad companions for Chard.
 
5) Prolific producer - Chard averages 12 – 18 inches in height and can be harvested 60 days after planting or when it is about 6 inches tall. Swiss chard is a good “cut and come again” plant - to harvest sever some of the outer leaves about 1 inch above the ground; leave the rest. Occasional harvesting in this manner will encourage the plant to continue producing quality greens for your table long term. Harvest the leaves early in the day.
 
For best results use Chard immediately after it is harvested, although it will keep in the refrigerator for a day or two when placed in a plastic baggie with a slightly moist paper towel. Chard is versatile in the kitchen, equally delicious on its own or used as a substitute for any recipe requiring spinach. Chard is a definite winner both in the garden and in the kitchen!

Monday, January 4, 2016

Honey Bee Swarms

During the spring and summer months each year large clusters of honey bees are sometimes found hanging from limbs of trees, the eaves of homes, under lawn furniture, on car bumpers and other objects. The act that caused the honey bees to cluster outside of their hive is called “swarming”; it is a natural occurrence among honey bees.
 
There are many reasons for swarming – the hive has become overpopulated and congested; the colony has become diseased or is starving, or in some instances natural causes such as a forest fire may prompt the entire colony to swarm. The purpose of the act of swarming, no matter what the cause, is to ensure the survival of and to perpetuate the species.
 
In the Northern Hemisphere, the Honey Bee queen usually suspends egg laying in first week of November; this is to allow the population of the colony to contract to help preserve and prolong the food stores in the hive during the coming winter. She begins laying eggs again around January 9th in an effort to increase the number of bees in the colony in preparation for the coming spring nectar flows, thus swarming tends to happen during the months of April, May and June; the hive is becoming congested as the population increases and more area in the hive is taken up for the storage of pollen and honey. However, swarming can also happen in late summer and early fall.

When conditions prompt the urge to swarm, the colony begins to prepare for the swarm and on a predetermined signal, thousands of honey bees (the swarm) will leave the hive with the resident queen. The swarm will usually settle on something nearby – a tree, a building, lawn furniture, etc., - awaiting communication of a new nest location from their “scout bees”. Once the new nest location has been discovered, the entire swarm will relocate – usually within 24 hours - and begin the arduous job of building a new colony. In general, Honey Bee swarms are very docile since there is no nest to defend. But it is prudent not to disturb the bees; if you happen upon one just remain calm and quietly leave the area.
 
The problem begins if the scouts cannot find an optimal location for the swarm to re-locate to permanently. In this case, the swarm will move into the nearest protected area for self preservation. This is not always conducive to good neighbor relations as oftentimes it’s someone’s attic, garage, mailbox, or even an AC unit.
The nests can easily get quite large and begin causing problems within the structure itself from dripping honey and weight. To cure the problem, both the bees and the honey comb must be removed! Otherwise, the honey comb if left behind will attract another swarm of bees, or other insects, including ants and roaches, and will cause mold and mildew to form in and around the nest, as well. So, prompt action on the part of the homeowner at the first sign of the bees can minimize the possibility of future structure damage.
For help with honey bee swarms contact your local beekeepers' association, your local Agricultural Extension Office, or a professional pest control company for assistance.
**Photo courtesy, George Rodriguez, Owner - Rose of Sharon Honey, Pearland, Texas.