Lucky's Story

"Baby" Lucky

The first time I saw Lucky was while attending the Elkhart Horse Auction one cold November evening in 2003. A young boy standing near the entrance to the Auction facilities with a crate of puppies was diligently attempting to find homes for them.

Never one to pass up an opportunity to hug a puppy – I stopped to talk with the boy about the puppies and a story began to unfold – a litter of puppies, eight altogether, had been found wrapped in a plastic bag dumped alongside a roadway with the litter’s Mother (a border collie) near the young boy’s home. The boy and his brothers rescued the Mother and her litter only to have the Mother die shortly afterwards, so the boys bottle-fed the litter until they were old enough to be weaned and then set about finding homes for each of them.

A Little Sailor Needs a Nap

Lucky and the two other puppies at the Horse Auction were the last of the litter. While talking with the boy I lifted each puppy out of the crate and as I made eye contact with one in particular, I knew this puppy would be going home with me. I named him “Lucky” because after all he had been through he was lucky to be alive.

The Ranch Boss

As of the writing of this story Lucky has been with us for twelve years. He has taken life with us in stride, even on weekends spent on the sailboat. He has always been a laid back kind of guy until somebody says “squirrel”! Or he perceives something or someone in his territory without permission.

A great watch dog and companion, we are “lucky” to have him in our lives. Lucky has since been joined by Slim and Tucker—but that’s another story!



 

The Value in Training Cattle

Recently I had an appointment in town; as I drove up to the office I noticed a man hurriedly exit through the front door, race to his truck, and speed off. Unfortunately, the man in the truck had been the person I was to meet with; he left suddenly because he had received the dreaded call that all cattle owners hope to never receive, “the cattle are out!” I concluded my business with another employee and while driving home I was reminded of my own experience with the cattle getting out; I doubt I will ever forget that day.

Our original herd started with eleven heifers; from the day they arrived on the property, I began taking steps to train them, and all subsequent cattle, to come when called. This proved to be invaluable the day the cows, with their calves, managed to get through the perimeter fence onto the county road.

Luckily I was home the day this happened; but I was alone. I was working outside in the garden and just happened to look up and see the cows moseying down the roadway, calves by their side, stopping periodically to graze on the roadside grass as they moved towards an intersection less than a mile from our gate.

Now, when something like this happens timing can be critical to avoid disaster. Depending on where the cattle have escaped to, a cattle owner has some options:  1) try to muster a neighbor(s) to help herd the cattle back home,  2) locate a professional cowboy(s) with horses to help round up the herd, or 3) get them back yourself. The problem with the first two options is - you are dependent on other people being available and it takes time to get them on sight. In my case, I did not have time to wait for help; the cattle were not in a neighbor’s pasture, they were on the roadway and headed for the intersection!

I ran to the store room, filled the red bucket I used to give range cubes (treats) to the cattle as part of their training program, jumped in the Nissan Xterra, and stopping just long enough to open the front gate, drove onto the county road and eased up to the herd. The cows recognized the bright yellow Xterra; they stopped to watch it and moved to the side of the road as I slowly drove through and past the herd about 30 yards, then I turned the vehicle around and headed slowly back through the herd. The cows were still standing and staring at the Xterra; immediately past the herd I held the red bucket out the window at arms-length, rattled the treats in the bucket, yelled as loud as I could “come up” and very, very slowly drove back towards the gate to the ranch.

I just kept shaking that bucket extended out the window and yelling “come up”. My arm and hand were aching, my heart was pounding, I was praying those girls would obey me and no other vehicles would come down that road and frighten the herd, especially the calves, or hit one of them! I was about 60 – 70 feet from the herd, watching them in the rear view mirror, when as a group the cows turned and started to follow the Xterra. Yes, yes, yes!

Down the road we went like the Pied Piper, but with really large mice, to the music of those treats shaking in the red bucket, and my yelling “come up” – the calves bringing up the rear  - through the front gate and to the back pasture where I secured the herd. As I drove back to the house, the cows were happily munching the treats I poured from the red bucket!

The fence failed for several reasons – this pasture was originally just used for hay; its perimeter fence was composed of 4 strands of 2 barb wire with pull posts at each end of a 500 foot run of a fence line which was slightly curved as it followed the property lines along the roadway.  Shade is provided by trees along the roadway. As temperatures heated up during the day, the cattle sought relief from the heat by spreading out along the fence line and laying underneath the shades trees. This particular day, the cattle were attracted to a neighbor’s cattle across the roadway and so were concentrated together and pressing on the fence in one area.  This combination of factors exerted enough pressure on the fence to break two wires, thus creating a large enough opening for the cattle to escape.

We replaced the fencing with 6 strands of 4 barb wire, replaced all the metal t-posts with stout wooden posts, and additional pull-posts in the curved areas to better tighten the wire.  This not only gives more strength to the entire fence, but discourages the cattle from pressing on the wire or putting their heads between the wires and stretching it out of place.

Lessons learned – 1) we changed the use of this particular pasture - we should have reassessed the fencing taking into account the possibility of cattle across the roadway and strengthened the fence before it failed, and 2) the time and effort put into training the cattle paid off; when I needed it most the repetitious training kicked in and the cattle trusted if they came when called they would be rewarded, it’s just that simple. Not only did this training allow me to easily move the cattle within our pastures or into the corral as needed; it ultimately saved an unexpected situation from becoming a disaster.

The Real Gold

During a phone conversa - tion recently the caller expressed concern about a possible economic collapse in our country and asked me if I thought gold was good insurance in case this happened; I posed two questions as my response, 1) can you truly afford to lose money, perhaps a lot of money, and 2) in the event of a major disaster, do you feel confident that someone with food, knowing they may not be able to get more anytime in the near future, would be willing to sell their food – for any price? If yes, buy the gold, if not, rethink what you can buy that will provide the best value for your money towards disaster insurance.

I have seen gold prices as much as $2200.00 an ounce; as I write this today I found it for $1323.00 an ounce. So, anyone buying gold at $2200.00 an ounce has already lost $877.00 towards their “disaster insurance”. Precious metals are no different than the stock market; one day you might be a millionaire – the next day a pauper. This is not to say that you cannot make money if you buy when the price of gold is low and sell when it is high; however, in general, the people getting wealthy are the ones selling the gold, not the buyers.

If people want to spend their money buying gold as their insurance against disaster, I respect their decision; I do not personally embrace this method of preparing for disaster. It all boils down to most Americans cannot financially afford to own gold, but beyond that – you cannot eat gold! You can buy a lot of food for $2200.00 or $1323.00. In my opinion, buying gold in the absence of a well-managed food storage plan, is like buying “fool’s gold” – you are not getting the best value for the money you have to spend.

Every time a commercial airs on television touting ownership of gold to ensure economic well-being, I am reminded of the gold rush days in America, when miners were paying $8.00 for a bag of salt, $3.00 for an egg, or $20.00 for a steak that before the strike was $.25. Who was really wealthy under these circumstances – it was not the people with the gold! It was the people that owned and sold the necessities of life; they not only had the where will all to sustain themselves and their families, they had the ability to become wealthy by selling the necessities to people in need of these items with much less risk and hardship.

I recall a conversation between my Mother and I; Mother was a child during the Great Depression. One day I asked her how difficult it was for her and her family to live through this time in our country. Surprisingly, she said they hardly realized there was a depression; they lived on a small farm and raised or grew the bulk of their food. If they needed something the farm did not or could not produce, they bartered food for it. Prior to World War II, most Americans lived on farms and ranches; after World War II there was a mass exodus to the city and jobs in the factories.

I grew up in the city and as I aged I realized many Americans have lost much of the knowledge our ancestors used to sustain themselves, like gardening, animal husbandry, carpentry, hunting and fishing, etc. Gone are the days when most Americans owned a few acres on which to provide for themselves; the majority live in apartment complexes or on postage stamp size lots in the city or suburbs. They buy their food in the local supermarket, a few days’ worth at a time, so it will not spoil.

Prior to World War II, as had people on this planet for thousands of years before that, individuals and families  - our ancestors - prepared to sustain themselves through uncertain times by raising and growing their own food, then harvesting and preparing that food for storage – it was either canned, dried, salted, or stored in root cellars. This was their “gold” – their insurance against hard times.

Today, when word of a pending disaster is spread, people rush to the supermarket to “stock up” on necessities – not gold. The reality is that in America today, our supermarkets have on hand a few days’ worth of food at most and are unable to supply hundreds of people in the immediate area with emergency supplies in a matter of hours. A few days after Hurricane Ike went through our area, out of curiosity I went to a nearby supermarket, it looked like a plague of locust had been through it; not even a can of dog food was left on the shelves.

Disasters can take many forms - civil unrest, earthquakes, floods, forest fires, blizzards, hurricanes, meteor showers, drought – and wars. Loss of employment can mean financial disaster for many Americans. When Hurricane Rita, a Category 3 storm, hit East Texas in 2005, it caused wide spread flooding from storm surges, heavy rain and high winds. There were residents of East Texas without electricity and running water for months. We can never fully predict the future, we can only prepare to the weather the “storms” we encounter in life as best we can. Attempts to prepare should not take place the day before the disaster hits!

Today, people who prepare to weather the hard times might be called – dare I say the word - “Preppers”! I have heard all the jokes and all the different definitions for “Preppers” – but the one that truly represents this group of people is – “a Prepper is a person who takes personal responsibility and self-reliance seriously”. Granted some people take prepping to an extreme, like moving to the wilds of Alaska or living in a cave in the Arizona desert – hey, I don’t have a problem with someone who feels this is right for them; but for most Americans, this is not reality or a desired life-style.

There is a particular group that encourages its members to store at least one year’s worth of food as a buffer against hard times; however, starting out with a one to three month supply is a good goal and can be expanded, if desired, as you become knowledgeable. Even a two-week supply is more than some people keep on hand!

There are a lot of reasons why storing food is smart, 1) foremost, it may save your life and that of your family in the event of a disaster, 2) it is a buffer against rising prices in food – you can buy bulk supplies of staple goods on sale, i.e., canned vegetables, sugar, flour, grains, beans, etc., thereby saving money, 3) stored food can help sustain you and your family through economic hardships, such as job losses or major health issues, 4) it can, particularly specialty items, be used as barter, and last but not least,  5) it provides  a sense of security in a World seemingly gone insane!

All Americans should take responsibility for learning to grow their own food – be it in their back yard or as part of a community garden. All Americans should have a food storage plan as a buffer against disaster. I hear people say they don’t have the money to buy extra food just to store it; the question is – can you afford not to do so? With a good food storage plan, the food is not just being stored; it is rotated and replaced as used so the amount on hand does not fall below sustainable levels. Everyone can find some extra money in their budget – quit smoking cigarettes, rent a movie for the entire family to watch at home instead of going to the movies and spending a small fortune on junk food while there, forego that $100.00 dress that you don’t need – the money is there, look for it!

Developing a personal food storage plan can be a challenge, but it can also be fun. A well thought out, well managed food storage plan is worth its weight in gold. If someone calls you a “Prepper” just smile and take it as a compliment – because one day you may be the person with the “real gold”, the priceless bags of salt, rice, beans and sugar!

Ten Things to Consider When Selecting an Apiary Location

For the novice beekeeper, locating his/her hives in an area that is conducive to regular visits is very important for two reasons—watching the activity of the bees in and around each hive is part of the learning process; it helps to differentiate between what is normal bee hive activity and what is not. This is essential to successful beekeeping!

 

Additionally, new hives will require regular monitoring to ensure the queen bee has been released, (as is the case with “package bees”), the queen is present in the hive and laying eggs, and the overall population and health of the colony is progressing as expected.

 

Here are ten things to consider when selecting a location for your apiary:

 

Check out local laws and restrictions.  This is absolutely the first step in your plan for beekeeping! The location of your apiary may be limited by local ordinances and other restrictions, including homeowner association rules and regulations. Additionally, permits may be required. It is best to be aware of and deal with these issues early in the decision making process or you may find yourself on the nasty end of a lawsuit.

 

Locate the hives near a clean source of water. Bees use a lot of water, not only for satisfying their own thirst, but to help cool the hive during the heat of our long, hot Texas summers. Do not place the hive in a gulley—the air will be damp and still, thus creating an unhealthy environment. If there is not a nearby source of clean water, you will need to provide one for them.

 

Placing a bird bath or other shallow water source near your hives with some small rocks above water level for the bees to safely land on and drink will provide adequate water.  If you will not be able to check on your bee’s water source daily, a 5-gallon bucket will suffice. Drill some small drainage holes a few inches from the top of the bucket. Fill the bucket to just below the drainage holes and drop some Styrofoam packing kernels in the bucket. The rain will help to renew the water in the bucket, the packing kernels provide “landing pads” for the bees to perch on and avoid drowning while drinking, and the drain holes keep the bucket from filling up and dumping the packing kernels out of the bucket. In the best case scenario, the rain will keep it filled, but check on it regularly, and keep the bucket filled, clean, and sanitary. You can also buy commercially available watering devices for your bees.

 

The apiary must be accessible by vehicle. Bee hives, when filled with bees and honey, can be very heavy; ensure you can easily get a vehicle into and out of the apiary for hive setup and maintenance. Save your back, ensure you can park directly behind or beside your hives! Having your vehicle on hand is convenient for accessing tools and equipment parts as needed while inspecting your hives or pulling honey supers from the hive for honey extraction.

Keep in mind relocation of your hives may be required during emergency situations, such as forest fires or rising tides from an approaching tropical storm. Have a plan for emergency evacuation of your hives!

Provide some security and privacy for your bees. It is advisable to place your hives in a fenced, locked area so they are less apt to be seen by passersby. Beekeepers have had their hives destroyed by vandals and even stolen. Fencing will additionally keep small children, pets, and livestock away from the hives, as well as known “hive raiders”, such as skunks. There is some evidence that bees are sensitive to the presence of horses – give this serious consideration when selecting a location for your hives. Do not locate your hive adjacent to areas of high foot traffic or areas, such as patios where food will be served, especially sweets, or you will have uninvited guests - many, many of them!

Place your hive on firm ground with good drainage. If placed on ground that has poor drainage or very loose soil, you run the risk of the hive becoming unstable. As it sinks into the soil, it may collapse and kill your bees. Beekeepers placing their hives in areas with poor drainage risk vehicles becoming mired in mud as well, and the area may become totally inaccessible, even by foot, during certain times of the year.

Adequate sunlight and shade. The hives should have southern or eastern exposure to provide adequate sunlight. Place the hives facing southeast, so the sun pours into the hive entrance and serves as an alarm clock to wake up your bees. Avoid placing the hives in deep shade from trees or structures. Your hives will do well with non-evergreen trees located to the west and southwest of their position as they will receive afternoon shade during the summer’s peak temperatures, and benefit from the sun’s warming rays during the late fall and winter.

Provide windbreaks in the direction of the prevailing winds.  Placing your hives behind a windbreak - and additionally wrapping each hive if the winter is extremely cold and/or windy - will help the bees maintain required heat levels during severe weather and reduce consumption of winter food stores in the hive. DO NOT BLOCK THE HIVE ENTRANCE UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!

Avoid placing the hive on a hilltop where it can be buffeted by winter winds or in gullies where the air will be damp and still.

Setting the Hive in Place

Do not set the hive in contact with the ground. To minimize damp conditions and reduce deterioration of the hive’s woodenware, the bottom board of the hive should not be set directly on the ground. Any number of solutions to this issue is available from commercially offered hive stands to placing the hive on concrete blocks, or homemade tables, etc. As the colony grows and additional brood boxes/honey supers are added to the hive, the stand upon which the hive has been placed must be sturdy enough to support the added weigh and remain stable or the hive may collapse.  Some beekeepers in areas prone to raids by skunks place their hives on stands at least 18 inches off the ground – as the “raiders” stretch to reach the hive entrance, their underbelly is exposed to the bees’ sting. Do not make tables or stands so high you cannot safely lift the boxes off the hive for maintenance or honey harvest.

Further deterring of unwanted visitors can be achieved by placing a board with protruding tacks in front of the hive—it will be extremely uncomfortable footing. As an alternative, a small roll of barbed or other wire that will not block access by the bees, but keep predators from reaching the hive entrance, may be employed.

Mulch or old carpet placed around the hive will keep down weeds and tall grasses, so the hive is easily accessible by bees in flight. If using a screened bottom board - clear, accessible space beneath the hive will enhance keeping the area clean of debris.

Tilt hive and face away from prevailing winds. The hive, when set in place, is best facing away from prevailing winds to aid the bees in keeping the hive warm during inclement weather. Tilt the hive very slightly forward. Inevitably rain will blow inside the hive, by tilting the hive slightly forward the water will automatically drain once the storm has passed. This will keep the hive’s bottom board and entrance dry and free from mildew and mold.

Place a small weight on outer hive cover.  High winds can easily blow the cover off your hive and expose the bees to rain, wind, and chilling temperatures thus killing your bees. Reduce the chance of this happening by placing some weight on the hive cover - a small rock or two will usually be sufficient. Small, flat concrete garden border blocks work well.

Bottom line, the time to make decisions about how and where to setup your hive is not the day you take possession of the bees. Some forethought will get your beekeeping venture off to the good start!

Avoid Seven Common Mistakes Made by First-time Cattle Owners

When we decided to raise cattle we really didn’t know what to expect; I recall many times being told how difficult cattle are to work with and what dumb animals they tend to be, among other things. Luckily, we ignored all the negatives and concentrated on the positives. Cattle have their quirks, just like any other animals, but this is not indicative of being dumb, nor are they especially difficult to work with, as long as you use patience and common sense.

There is, like most things, a learning curve in raising cattle; the following are some mistakes commonly made by first-time cattle owners, along with some advice for avoiding or at least minimizing their impact: 

1) Failure to identify your goals – there are many reasons why people purchase cattle from simply to keeping the grass down on a few acres of land around their home, to maintaining a property tax exemption, to seeking to build a business for profit with the sale of livestock capable of supporting one or more people. There is an old saying to the tune – if you don’t know where you are going, how can you plan to get there and how will you know when you are there? Cattle raising – ranching – is a business, and businesses should have goals and a plan to reach those goals.

2) Failure to seek education - cattle ranching is no different than any other business - knowledge, time and startup funds, are all necessary for success. Like any new business, there is a big learning curve unless you have someone with experience in raising cattle as a business partner or mentor. The more effort you make to learn about raising cattle before making your first purchase, the quicker your learning curve can be reduced. Reducing the learning curve can mean the difference between success and failure in a for-profit endeavor. There are a multitude of books about cattle on the market – from managing their health to managing their pastures. Read, read, and read! Contact your local agricultural extension agent to find out about courses involving livestock or pasture management available either through the extension, junior colleges, or private parties; ask the agents advice as to which courses would be most beneficial to a startup operation. Take the recommended courses as soon as possible. You may decide after taking steps to educate yourself that the “cattle business” is not for you and thereby, save time and money that can be put towards some other business venture more in line with your goals. Raising cattle is not for everyone.

3) Failure to prepare for receipt of and on-going support for the cattle – fences, fences, fences; make sure you have the correct fencing and it is in good repair before the cattle are unloaded on your property! The land selected to hold the cattle must be able to provide an on-going supply of clean drinking water and the nutritional needs of the cattle, if not, you will have to provide supplemental water and food. In many areas of the country grazing is not possible 12 months a year; you must have a plan to provide for the months it is not available. Relocation to a new place puts a lot of stress on cattle, both emotionally and physiologically, to the point young and other predisposed animals can become very ill. Do not turn the animals out into a large pasture for the first few days after delivery; the first thing the animals will do after exiting a trailer into a large pasture unknown to them is rush around the perimeter fencing – they will look for any weakness in the fence, some may even jump the fence, to escape because their stress level is at a peak. Unload them into a large pen or corral for a minimum of 3 – 5 days with plenty of fresh water, good hay, and some cover from the weather. Note: if you have bought cattle from other than a reputable dealer with proven cattle health records, you should consider getting them vaccinated by a veterinarian and keeping the new cattle segregated from your existing herd for 3 weeks, either in a pasture after the initial 3-5 day calm down period, or moving them through a series of small paddocks or pens to avoid too much manure buildup in the corral. This is both a time for observation to ensure none of the animals are ill or injured, to engage a veterinarian if necessary, and time for the cattle to calm down before release into the larger pasture. Not allowing cattle time to calm down before release is one of the biggest mistakes new cattle owners make! Check the fences – again - and make any repairs before you release the cattle from the pen!!

4) Failure to purchase cattle from a reputable breeder – first-time cattle owners should seek to purchase cattle only from reputable cattle ranches or farms within the areas around their property location. This helps, among other things, to reduce health problems caused by different parasites and drastic climate changes, such as going from predominantly cold winters and cool, dry summers to climates with exceedingly humid and hot summers or vice versa. Additionally, the ranch owner can provide advice in the selection of animals suitable to meet your goals. A serious ranch owner will have a management plan for the health of his or her herd that documents the steps taken to ensure the health of the animals. Check with local veterinarians about local breeders; they can serve as a valuable resource in finding quality breeders in the area. If possible take someone knowledgeable in cattle with you to view the animals. Do not buy more stock than the land that will hold the cattle can support unless you plan to supplement their food and water.

5) Failure to develop workable operational schedules – age, breed and nutritional state have a lot to do with when heifers reach puberty and begin to experience estrus cycles; educate yourself about your particular breed of cattle and develop a workable breeding program. A workable breeding program takes into account not only the age of the heifers, but bull management, annual breeding for all your cattle, calf weaning, and marketing schedules. Additional tasks may need to be scheduled, including but not limited to, vaccinations, acquisition of hay, baling your own hay, fertilization of pastures, fencing tasks, and maintenance of equipment. Folks, how well you plan operations will go a long way to allowing you to take a vacation or to go out of town for an educational seminar, now and then, without worrying about things “blowing up” on the ranch. Keep in mind – Mother Nature waits for no one – and that includes ranchers!

6) Failure to understand the “herd mentality” - cattle are “herd” animals by nature; the company of other cattle is important to both their overall sense of well-being and ultimately, their health. Cattle do best within in a herd; they can touch other cattle and a “pecking” order is established so each animal knows its place in the herd – the herd equates to safety; the sense of safety goes a long way to keeping an animal calm. To join or remain part of a herd, a separated animal may panic and try to run through or jump fences, thus risking injury, sometimes severe injury. Now, this may seem a little strange, but be aware cattle establish friendships – BFFs – so to speak. If you must separate and pen an animal away from the herd, unless the animal is suffering from possible contagion, always place at least one other animal, preferably its BFF, in or next to the penned animal to help keep it calm. As long as they can see and especially, touch noses with the other animal, they do not tend to panic. When purchasing two or more animals, ask if the owner has knowledge of BFF relationships in the herd; if so, consider purchasing the BFFs together. This will go a long way in helping reduce the stress of relocation.

7) Failure to establish a working relationship with the cattle – to work with cattle effectively, they must come to know and trust you. Never use or allow anyone else to use an electric prod or a whip on your cattle – period! Cattle are extremely curious, as well as cautious, and have very good memories. Cattle respond to slow deliberate movements - they love treats - they recognize, remember and respond well to quietly spoken words. They remember if someone has mistreated them and this will sometimes make handling of them in similar situations difficult. Cattle can be trained; with some patience and understanding, they are very easy for anyone, including children, to work with. 

Folks, never, ever underestimate the value of planning and scheduling operations on the ranch or training and developing a relationship with your animals!

Good Fences, Make Good Neighbors

Quite often the description of a rural property for sale will state it is “fenced” and perhaps even “cross-fenced”, which means the property has some amount of fencing internal to its perimeter boundary. The absence of or the quality of existing fencing should be given serious consideration by anyone seeking to acquire rural property for a farming or ranching endeavor, particularly one involving livestock.

Fencing does much more than just delineate a property’s perimeter boundaries, it aids in managing areas within those boundaries to facilitate securing livestock, croplands, woodlands, and buildings – quite simply it helps to keep your livestock in, the neighbor’s livestock out, and reduces access by undesirables, human and animal.

If you are purchasing a property for farming or ranching, fencing should be viewed as a valuable and necessary tool for your future operations; if the fencing is non-exist, not of the proper type to secure your livestock, or is in poor condition - the time, effort and cost to bring it up to operational levels should be identified prior to purchase. Keep in mind an accurate survey of the property to indicate where the property lines are will be required to ensure proper placement, both for existing fencing and any new fencing in the future. It is not uncommon to find that some amount of fencing has not been placed according to the survey. In this case, a remedy should be identified and agreed upon prior to the sale. Also, be aware surveys of rural property can be quite expensive, depending on the size of the property and the landscape, so any purchase of rural property should either require the current owner of the property to provide an accurate survey with the sale or if none exists, the cost of acquiring a survey should be negotiated prior to the sale. 

 

Evaluate the property’s fencing at the same level you would the roof of the house, or the age and size of the air conditioning system, etc., during the purchase of a home. Thoroughly check the fencing - walk or drive the property lines and don’t be reluctant to ask questions about the fencing; note any damage or areas of concern. It’s better to go to “closing” fully prepared than to be shocked after you have signed on the dotted line to find some or all of the fencing must be replaced. Putting up new fencing is not “rocket science”, but it does take some knowledge, strength, and tools – and of course, funds for materials.

Livestock, all livestock, will put pressure on fences in some way. This is particularly true of cattle; the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence and to a bull, the cows are prettier, too! Believe me when I say, looking up to see your cows and their calves sashaying down the county road, or the neighbor’s commercial-grade bull trying to breed your young registered heifers, gives your heart rate a big jolt; suffice it to say, it is things such as these you do not want to happen – ever, if you can prevent it.

 

There is an old saying “Good fences, make good neighbors”; I cannot overemphasize how true this is in rural America. No matter where you land, if it is in rural Texas, rural Montana, or anywhere on the map, chances are very great that you will be sharing a good portion, if not all, of your perimeter fencing with someone else. Fencing, as it relates to livestock management, can and does create a great deal of animosity between neighbors in rural areas, if allowed to do so. Fortunately, most people that raise livestock value good fencing and work with you to ensure shared perimeter fencing is maintained in good condition. However, expectations of both parties must be reasonable – for example, don’t expect them to buy into replacing fencing that works well for their needs with something new because your plans require a different type of fencing, nor vice versa.

 

Sometimes you can negotiate a split in costs for fencing and labor; sometimes it may be necessary for you to supply the labor. You may encounter neighbors that do not appear to have invested in maintaining the perimeter fencing; good communication between the parties involved can often establish the basis for this and identify possible solutions. There may be situations in which to get the perimeter fencing you need in place – you must supply the funds for materials, the labor, and deal with the neighbor’s livestock having access to your property during the process. In these situations the old saying “life ain’t always fair” applies.

 

Folks, here’s the bottom line - as a livestock owner, you are legally and financially responsible for anything that happens while your livestock are running loose on a roadway or on someone else’s property! If you can work with your neighbors to share responsibility for the fencing – wonderful – if not, don’t dwell on it or create a bad overall relationship because I can almost guarantee you a situation will arise in which you may need that neighbor’s help on something more important – pick your battles carefully.

 

Fences are a necessary tool in farming and ranching - get the fences up, keep them in good repair, and the time you would otherwise spend chasing loose livestock – yours or the neighbors - can be devoted to the other things on the list that need to be done – in farming and ranching there is always a list! J